labricoleuse: (history)
Costume Director Judy Adamson's period pattern class has presented their second round of projects in 19th century women's wear, and wow, are there some sleeves on these!


Read more... )
labricoleuse: (Default)
Costume Director Judy Adamson's period patterning class presented their next round of 19th century projects--1830s gowns--which is quite timely, given our next show on deck, Nicholas Nickleby!

photos )

I also have another interesting blog to plug, for costume history and reproduction enthusiasts! Trying on History is the blog of the Vassar College Costume Collection, tracing their historical reproduction projects utilizing garments in their clothing archive. Thusfar, the blog covers mostly their first such project, a 1910-era gown from the Franklin Simon 5th Avenue store in NYC. The collection has received an internal grant funding the reproduction program, and it looks like it's shaping up to be a really cool educational feature--i'm looking forward to following future projects-yet-to-come. Check it out!
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Part One of this series addressed hairline tracing, wig ventilation, and mocking up a coal-scuttle bonnet.

Part Two dealt with setting the wig and covering the buckram base of the bonnet.

Here's how the whole thing turned out, trimming and styling!

photos galore! )
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Recall my post of a couple weeks back on a joint project between myself and wig maker Jaime Blinn-Bagley on lace-front wig making and 1830s coal-scuttle bonnet construction. Looks like what i thought was going to be a two-part series is going to actually extend to three parts, so here's the long-awaited Part Two.

In case you missed the first post, we chose some historical research from the 1830s and are building in-tandem a wig to be styled in the Apollo knot hairstyle and a bonnet to be worn over the hairstyle. We left off with the wig production at the stage just before ventilation: the headwrap and hairline tracing had happened, the wig to be refronted had been prepared for lace-fronting, and the wig lace had been cut to shape and attached to the wig.

Bonnet construction had left off on the cliffhanger of buckram shape approval--a wired paper mockup had been created, fitted, and the pattern altered to reflect changes that came from the mockup fitting.

So what's next? )
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Another of my long-term projects has gotten to a point that it's worth posting a midstream overview: 1830's hats & hairdos!

I'm doing this project in tandem with our wig master, Jaime Blinn-Bagley. Jaime is giving a guest lecture on lace-backed facial hair and hand-ventilated lace-front wigs to my millinery class.

The students are almost finished with a unit on buckram hat foundations and the next unit is all about wigs, how hats interact with hair, and hairstyles that are really more like hats (i.e., huge 18th c. Madame de Pomadour wigs with buckram infrastructures). If you want to cruise through a cool photogallery that illustrates more on this topic, check out these photographs of the crowns made for Dior's fall 2004 collection, where the crowns have wire foundations for the hairdos built onto them.

Jaime and i decided to choose a period in which hairstyles and hat shapes influenced one another; Jaime would front a wig and style it in the period style, while i simultaneously built a hat designed to be worn with the wig/style. In this way, she would be able to show my class the process of fronting a wig, and i'd be able to document how a milliner takes hair and wigs into consideration during the construction of a hat. So what'd we choose?

1830s: Coal scuttle bonnet with Apollo knot updo! )

January 2017

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