Period pattern class: 1830s, plus bonus historical reproduction blog

[labricoleuse]

Costume Director Judy Adamson's period patterning class presented their next round of 19th century projects--1830s gowns--which is quite timely, given our next show on deck, Nicholas Nickleby!



From left: lavender gown by Amy A. Page, red gown by Shanna Parks, striped gown by Lisa Raymond


Detail of red gown sleeve/bodice, by Shanna Parks

And, a teaser from the next round of Decorative Arts projects:



Shanna Parks fits her parasol canopy pattern

I like the way the unfinished exterior seam allowances look on this mockup canopy! I think you could make some cool design choices exploiting this, depending on your fabric choice and pattern, possibly judiciously tacking the seam allowances to create dimensional decorative elements. Hmm...



I also have another interesting blog to plug, for costume history and reproduction enthusiasts! Trying on History is the blog of the Vassar College Costume Collection, tracing their historical reproduction projects utilizing garments in their clothing archive. Thusfar, the blog covers mostly their first such project, a 1910-era gown from the Franklin Simon 5th Avenue store in NYC. The collection has received an internal grant funding the reproduction program, and it looks like it's shaping up to be a really cool educational feature--i'm looking forward to following future projects-yet-to-come. Check it out!

Comments

[wodhaund.livejournal.com]

I am in love with that red dress. Kudos to Ms. Parks (and all the students) on a job well done!

[ladycelia.livejournal.com]

Love the Trying on History site--added a syndicated feed to LJ.

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

Cool! What did you name it?

[ladycelia.livejournal.com]

I went with the obvious. tryingonhistory.

half-size heartbreak

[thebitchinstitch.blogspot.com (from livejournal.com)]

these are great examples of beautiful work.

but i must ask - why don't you do full size garments? it breaks my heart to see these half dresses, great for practice but not of much use after that. why not make both halves? what do you do with these half dresses?

Re: half-size heartbreak

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

All of the students have the option to make the entire dress (and, they often do for assymetrical designs, or sometimes particular styles in which they want to do the whole thing for whatever reason), but we only require half the gown; there are several reasons for the common half-form choice.

The main one being cost and time, in terms of the graduate students' responsibilities. Grad students don't have a lot of disposable income, usually, and especially in some of these periods where dresses are so voluminous, being able to purchase half as much yardage (especially when working with an expensive fabric) is a huge financial incentive to do the half form.

And, time's always precious, so doing half saves a certain amount of time as well. Our students come in to the program usually with a great deal of sewing experience behind them, and are well-versed in skills like installing closures and hand-finishing of complete garments--these projects are exercises in pattern development from draping, drafting, and experimentation.

You have the crux of it when you say "great for practice," though. Many students love the freedom of the half-form, work for work's sake. They say they enjoy the lack of expectation of a finished piece, in that it inspires them to take more risks with draping, patterning, and experimentation.

They keep their work--some of them have brought the half-forms to interviews along with portfolios as a tangible example of their work (which, is rare to have when all of your actualized projects are the properties of theatres' costume collections, not your own).

Hope this answers your questions!

Re: half-size heartbreak

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

I should also add, in addition to this coursework, the students also drape for LORT productions on our mainstage, so they do wind up doing completed full garments for actual practical stagewear from costume design renderings several times a semester. These projects are for class assignments only, but they certainly do also get their share of actualized complete portfolio work as well.

Re: half-size heartbreak

[thebitchinstitch.blogspot.com (from livejournal.com)]

all of these things make sense. it still makes me sad to see dresses that can never be worn! especially when they're so beautiful!!