labricoleuse: (hats!)
The current topic in millinery class is straw as a medium. Coincidentally, Anna Sui's spring/summer 2007 collection includes a number of straw tricornes and bicornes! I really hope these are the next big thing, personally. As such, i decided to do my sample straw for the class in a tricorn...

...and it's awesome. )
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
This post though is an overview of the crafts projects involved in the PlayMakers Repertory Company's current mainstage production, The Bluest Eye, running through the end of the weekend at the Paul Green Theatre in Chapel Hill, NC.

Read more... )
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
Our unit in shoe class right now is on modifying shoes on some basic structural level to achieve a new silhouette or shape. As i've mentioned before, i do the projects a step ahead of or along with my students, so that they can observe my process as well as one another's. So, here is one of my pairs of shoes that i've completely remade:

fabulous shoe action )
labricoleuse: (hats!)
For our current mainstage production, The Bluest Eye, i had a unique problem with millinery for the costume of the character Soaphead Church.

In the context of the play, Church is a mystic, a former holy man who has lost his faith, and implied former child molestor and possible convict. Our designer's imagery for him was steeped in itenerant tinker imagery, trickster imagery, and the iconic silhouette of the top-hatted voudoun loa Baron Samedi.

My problem became, how to make a brand-new top hat that looks wrecked and ancient, in a very particular fashion...


Read more... )
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
In shoe class, our second project addresses the concept of footwear add-ons: spats, gaiters, pattens, spur leathers, anything that could be created to change the look and function of footwear, that is not actually permanently attached to the shoe itself.

Because of the small number of students in the class (2), i do all the projects along with them, partly because i feel that the best way of learning costume crafts artisanship involves both the creation and engineering of practical projects, and observing how others create and engineer projects, and partly because i just want one more project in the mix to discuss. Plus, hi, it's fun!

So, one of my students is making leather pattens to go over the sole and heel of a late 18th c. court shoe, and the other is making decorative knee-high spats to cover high boots...


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photo property of Interweave Knits Magazine


I'm doing something completely different. )

Off-topic for the post, but for those who enjoyed my write-up and technical analysis of the Edward Scissorhands ballet tour, they now have a LiveJournal. Friend them at [livejournal.com profile] eshtour to keep tabs on how the ballet is going!

Lastly, i have to wind up with product endorsements:

Handmade wooden needles from Twin Birch
I have always previously knit with metal or plastic needles, but i'm sold on wooden needles now! They have a completely different hand to them, and the yarn handles so well on birch needles. Plus, i advocate supporting artisans working with sustainable natural materials, as well. Check them out!

YARRRRRRN t-shirt, for knitting pirates. This cracked me up.
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Recall my post of a couple weeks back on a joint project between myself and wig maker Jaime Blinn-Bagley on lace-front wig making and 1830s coal-scuttle bonnet construction. Looks like what i thought was going to be a two-part series is going to actually extend to three parts, so here's the long-awaited Part Two.

In case you missed the first post, we chose some historical research from the 1830s and are building in-tandem a wig to be styled in the Apollo knot hairstyle and a bonnet to be worn over the hairstyle. We left off with the wig production at the stage just before ventilation: the headwrap and hairline tracing had happened, the wig to be refronted had been prepared for lace-fronting, and the wig lace had been cut to shape and attached to the wig.

Bonnet construction had left off on the cliffhanger of buckram shape approval--a wired paper mockup had been created, fitted, and the pattern altered to reflect changes that came from the mockup fitting.

So what's next? )
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
Recall from my last post on shoemaking resources, this semester I am teaching a class in shoe topics. Finally, a post about our very first project!

Our first unit of study was of an introductory nature--learning the vocabulary of shoe terminology, basic cobbling skills like repairing damaged shoes, operating an industrial patcher machine, and rubberizing soles, etc. We also learned about the cordwainer's trade--building shoes from "scratch". (Vocab: Cobblers repair shoes, cordwainers build them.) Students have, in the course of the first unit, repaired one pair of damaged shoes, rubberized one pair of leather-soled shoes, and patterned and built a pair of simple shoes. In this case, "simple" was defined as having a leather sole and a leather or cloth upper.

I do the projects a step ahead of my students for my classes, so they always have an actual physical example to look at in the production process. My simple shoe style was what is commonly known as an elf shoe: a curly-toed slipper. Some proper names for this style are poulaine, pike, and crackowe.

Read more... )
labricoleuse: (ass head mask)
This is the second part of a two-part series on the building of the macropuppet plant arms for the musical Little Shop of Horrors. Part one is here, in which i illustrate how we built the "skeletons" of the arms.

Photos and explanation of how the arms got finished... )
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Another of my long-term projects has gotten to a point that it's worth posting a midstream overview: 1830's hats & hairdos!

I'm doing this project in tandem with our wig master, Jaime Blinn-Bagley. Jaime is giving a guest lecture on lace-backed facial hair and hand-ventilated lace-front wigs to my millinery class.

The students are almost finished with a unit on buckram hat foundations and the next unit is all about wigs, how hats interact with hair, and hairstyles that are really more like hats (i.e., huge 18th c. Madame de Pomadour wigs with buckram infrastructures). If you want to cruise through a cool photogallery that illustrates more on this topic, check out these photographs of the crowns made for Dior's fall 2004 collection, where the crowns have wire foundations for the hairdos built onto them.

Jaime and i decided to choose a period in which hairstyles and hat shapes influenced one another; Jaime would front a wig and style it in the period style, while i simultaneously built a hat designed to be worn with the wig/style. In this way, she would be able to show my class the process of fronting a wig, and i'd be able to document how a milliner takes hair and wigs into consideration during the construction of a hat. So what'd we choose?

1830s: Coal scuttle bonnet with Apollo knot updo! )
labricoleuse: (ass head mask)
I have a lot of complex projects in the works right now--shoes, hats, the wire crinolines from the last post--but by far my favorite is building the enormous girl-grabbing puppet arms of Audrey II, the carnivorous plant star of the musical Little Shop of Horrors.

If you are familiar with the show, you know that it's all about the plant puppets, and that because the plant grows exponentially larger in each scene, the show requires four different plant puppets--two handheld potted-plant-sized ones, a large walkaround-sized one (though since it's in a pot, the puppeteer doesn't actually walk around in it), and an enormous one that requires three and then five puppeteers to manipulate it due to its sprawling prehensile "arms".

The Drama department of Durham Academy, a prestigious private K-12 school in Durham, NC, is producing the show this semester with sets designed by Zach Hamm, who also is the ATD at my work. They are working with the licensing and production company Music Theatre International, from whom they are also renting the plants. The set of four puppets was originally built by Character Translations, Inc.. The rental package consists of the four plants and plans for building the two sets of grabbing arms. (Presumably the plans are offered instead of renting built versions of the arms themselves due to the need to accomodate varying stage sizes and different actor-faces for the victim-flowers.) Zach and his construction team were unable add building the arms on top of their work on the set itself, so he asked if i'd be interested in doing it, and i ask you: does the sun come up in the morning?

YES, i was definitely interested in doing it!

Photographs, plans, and the first part of the plantbuilding process...show me the Audrey! )
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
One of the projects that our Costume Production and Technology MFA students must complete in their third year of study is a historical reproduction. They choose a garment from our extensive vintage and antique clothing archive (perhaps 10% of which is searchable online at the CoStar site[1]), study it at length, reproduce it exactly with new materials and trims which must be as close as possible in fiber content and quality to the original piece, and finally write up a research paper on the garment itself with initial construction analysis and any information (if known) about the designer, owner/donor, etc.

One of our students this year has chosen to reproduce this beautifully-embellished but visibly damaged 1900 wool jacket:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


It is comprised largely of a heavy, dense melton wool, in a shade a bit darker than the flash reveals it in this photo. The wool she purchased for the project was the correct weight and hand, but a tad too bright and "carnivally" a hue of royal, so i spent my afternoon dyeing it for her.

Read more... )
labricoleuse: (Default)
One of the projects i've been working on lately has been these tiny straw hats for an upcoming piece premiered by Carolina Ballet in tandem with an exhibit of Monet paintings at the North Carolina Museum of Art, a ballet inspired by the works of Claude Monet called Monet Impressions.

This is one of the images we were given as research, Monet's Woman With Parasol. The costumes are all very much of this signature Monet color palette, and are romantic tutus and bodices cut in a style reminiscent of the period. Two of the ballerinas will have tiny straw hats--smaller than historical scale, due to the need to perform the range of ballet movement. They're sort of a take-off designwise on those smallish 1870s hats that sat at an angle toward the front of the head, usually slightly off-centered, anchored to a big piled-up coiffure in the back.

I put in a bid on them and got the gig, but then something happened budgetarily such that the materials line on headwear shrunk up, i gather? Whatever it was, i found myself figuring out how to do them on a shoestringy basis, when i'd been hoping to buy straw braid or a straw hood and sizing a shape, etc, fancy high-end fun stuff. In addition to the budget issue, i also had a time-turnaround issue--what had been a couple months' lead-time turned into "we need to fit this in two weeks." No time to order braid anyway! Yipes!

So, how'd that $1 materials-budget work out for me?

Fine, thank you. Welcome to Millinery Makeover! )
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
Too much to do and not enough time right now, but i wanted to post this cool project i just finished: faking some traditional geta with no budget.

For this event i'm costuming, one of the characters is a traditional Geisha...at least, as much as possible for no budget and only what can be pulled/altered in our costume stock. Lucky me, we had two beautiful antique kimono to use, and i'm making an obi sash with a big ornate fan-shaped back-knot (possibly to be featured in a future post), and our wigmaster has dressed and ornamented a lovely geisha-style wig. But! I really had my heart set on some big extreme geta sandals--you know, the kind with the giant jacked-up wooden sole? But woodworking some soles was out of the question, and i wanted my actress to have more support for the shoes than two little velvet flipflop straps, too.

Lucky me, i found some clogs in stock that just begged to be modified... (pix behind the cut) )
labricoleuse: (me)
First up: forthcoming posts will include the final two segments of my studio setup discussion, backstage at The Lion King, and an exhibit review of the current costume history gallery at the NC Museum of History.

This post though is an overview of the crafts projects involved in the PlayMakers Repertory Company's current mainstage production, The Underpants, running through the end of the month at the Paul Green Theatre in Chapel Hill, NC.

photos and discussion )
labricoleuse: (hats!)
First, let's clarify what's going on in the subject line. My aim is to have a variety of topic headings--Projects, Reviews, Product Spotlights, Interviews, etc.--with subdivisions as necessary. For example, Reviews might have subheadings like Books and Performances, and Projects is going to get broken down into a wide range, depending on the type of project discussed. In this case, it's "Hats, Helmets, & Headgear." Note my clever use of a hat icon, for a visual cue as well. :D


The first HH&H project feature is a crested roman helmet, for the Utah Shakespearean Festival's Summer 2006 production of Antony and Cleopatra.




more pictures and construction info )


The crest is secured into the support with 5 Chicago screws--this way we could take it out or replace it with a different type or color of crest fairly easily. I may have to sort out those splits in the front 1/3 of the crest, if the director or designer wants the whole thing pristine and uniform--conceptually, the designs for Anthony's forces is that they are distressed and battle-worn, so i left it splitty for now. All in all though, it turned out pretty good, if i do say so myself.



Just as a matter of course, the photo-posting policy of this blog is to cut-tag more than one photo, but to leave one visible outside of the cut. The uncut photograph will most often be an image of the finished project.

January 2017

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