labricoleuse: (dye vat)
[personal profile] labricoleuse
Bleach manufacturers don't like to acknowledge the fact that bleach can damage the integrity of some natural fibers, but it's true. Whenever you apply bleach to a garment, either to bleach it out white or to remove dye or stains, or to create discharge shibori or other effects, you need to use a stop-action chemical after your process. (Some brand names are Bleach-Stop and Anti-Chlor.)



For our last mainstage show, our designer sent some beautiful lightweight discharge-printed Italian cotton fabric that she purchased in the garment district in NYC, from which we made a fin de siecle shirtwaist for a supporting actress. The manufacturers clearly did not employ any stop-action process on their yardage after the discharge effects were created because...

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...after 3 launderings during tech, our fabric flat-out disintegrated!

Here's a closer look:

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What did we do? (After consoling the draper with a pile of tissues and chocolate, of course.) Make a new blouse in a day from the extant pattern and the closest approximation to the fabric we could find locally. This wound up being a quilting cotton printed with a white floral design on a rust-colored ground, which i then put through a gold dyebath so the whites would turn gold. You can see below, it's nothing much like the original at all, but we had to make the best of what we could get immediately.

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Date: 2006-11-09 01:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mama2jude.livejournal.com
Poor Draper!

I didn't realise natural fiber fabric yardage might have residual chemicals in it. Good thing to know!

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