labricoleuse: (ass head mask)
While in San Miguel last month, i had the brilliant opportunity to visit The Other Face of Mexico, a mask and folk art museum featuring over 500 masks on display, video of indigenous dances, and a gallery of over 200 masks for purchase.

The museum is run by Bill and Heidi LeVasseur of the Casa de la Cuesta bed and breakfast hacienda. (Coincidentally, Bill is a graduate of UNC-Chapel Hill, too!) You have to contact them for an appointment to see the museum--it doesn't have standard hours. Admission is 50 pesos (under $5).

Bill has collected indigenous masks for 22 years, traveling to remote villages, recording video of the dances and talking with the mask artisans about their craft and culture. He's a fount of amazing info on indigenous Mexican cultures' maskmaking and performing, and clearly loves his subject. Here are some of my notes from the museum and Bill's talk about masking in Mexico:

Of 170 million Mexican citizens, 12 million of them cite their tribal affiliation as their nationality, rather than "Mexico."

No mask is considered authentic unless a dancer has worn it in performance; the masks are "baptized" by use, and an unworn mask is considered incomplete.

Dancers are always men, even if the mask is for a female character.

The masks' origins can be sourced by the woods used to carve them.

Some of the media used in various masks in the museum: Christmas bows and tinsel garland, boar tusks, donkey teeth, compact mirrors, coconut shells & gourds, various woods, mache, vintage top hats Padding is wads of paper or old socks/towels. Some are tied onto the face with long cords. Some have eyes that close when they move, like babydolls do.

Some masks are made in a smaller-than-face-sized scale, to make the performer seem larger in stature.

Inscriptions on the masks are often dedications to the lovers of the mask artisans.

The indigenous masked dances are for several different occasions: historical dances, performance of Christian stories, occupational dances, agricultural dances, entertainment.

Christ is never masked in religious dances.



We weren't allowed to take photos in the museum itself, but selections from the museum's collection will be featured in Deborah Bell's forthcoming book, Maskmakers and Their Craft: An Illustrated Worldwide Study (out Sept 3, 2010). We *were* allowed to take them in the gallery of masks for sale, so i have some images from that area, as well as photos of masks i purchased. The gallery was much more cluttered than the museum, so a lot of the pix are just stuffed with masks to look at!

masks galore! )
labricoleuse: (design)
I'm having an amazing month down here in the mountains of Mexico! Yesterday, i went to a nearby city called Guanajuato, about two hours' drive from the town i'm living in, San Miguel de Allende.

I almost didn't go to Guanajuato, fearing that i had too much work to do for the classes i'm taking here, but then i remembered, i am the master of efficient time-management. I may never be in this part of the world again, and seeing Guanajuato was one of the main things i had been really looking forward to.

So, i went, and boy, am i ever glad i did! There are a ton of amazing things to see and do there (not least of which is just the architecture and layout of the city, with its winding roads, historic buildings, underground tunnel-systems, and bright colors). I checked out the Diego Rivera House and Museum and saw a lot of his works that i'd never seen before. I swung by the Museum of the People, which had the most amazing collection of miniatures i've seen, including miniature footwear (including some minuscule wingtips) and tiny straw hats woven from hairlike strands of straw and blocked onto teeny hatblocks! And, i checked out the Museum of Don Quixote Iconography, which was my favorite of the museums.

I also happened upon a troupe of indigenous dancers performing in the street, and i took some photos of their headdresses and costumes regalia. I've been chronicling my trip in a travel blog, but these images are topical so i'm sharing them here instead. There's a lot to look at in the construction of these headdresses, particularly the quantity of feathers and how they're mounted. Check them out!

six photos )

January 2017

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