labricoleuse: (safety)
This article is reprinted from ACTS FACTS, the monthly newsletter of the Arts, Crafts, and Theater Safety watchdog organization. I highly recommend subscribing to the newsletter, which is $20 for one year within the continental US, $23 for Canadian and Mexican delivery, and $26 for everywhere else. Check their website for more info.

Since many of us use solvent-based spray paints in the theatre, not only in aerosol cans but through airbrushes and Preval sprayer bottles, this is of particularly disturbing interest. If you thought your respirator was enough protective equipment, you're wrong.


Spray Paint Study: Major Exposure by Skin Absorption

A study in the Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine of shipyard spray painters found that dermal exposure was a greater source of total exposure to solvent than inhalation exposure. While vapor inhalation is recognized as a primary occupational exposure and prevented by wearing respirators, the route of skin contact is usually ignored, the study said.

In tropical and subtropical countries particularly, the study said, it is too hot for spray painters to wear protective suits. For this reason, the study monitored 15 male Taiwanese spray painters during a three-day work period in August 2005. The workers wore long-sleeved shirts and trousers and used air-purifying, half-face respirators while spraying with airless guns to paint block units for assembling ships. The workers wore no chemically protective clothing or gloves.

For the study, researchers collected personal exposure data outside and inside the workers' respirator masks. Each worker had two samplers clipped to his collar. The participants wore the samplers a minimum of six hours a day. Dermal exposure samplers were taped directly onto workers' skin. Nine samplers--each three centimeters square--were placed on the back, upper arms, forearms, and upper legs. The dermal sampling was limited to two hours. Researchers also collected the workers' urine before and after each work shift.

Air samplers showed that the primary occupational exposure was to ethylbenzene and xylene solvents in the paints. Seven of the 40 air samplers outside the respirators had ethylbenzene ocencetrations above 100 parts per million, which is the threshold limit value (TLV) set by the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists. Eleven of the 40 samples implied some level of overexposure to ethylbenzene and xylene, the study said.

The highest dermal exposure concentrations were found on the workers' upper legs. All of the dermal doses of ethylbenzene across the different body regions were higher when workers were spraying inside the assemblies than when they were spraying outside the assemblies. "Significant correlations were found between ambient concentrations of xylene and dermal exposure mass of xylene for all investigated body regions," the study said. Similar results were found for ethylbenzene.

Analyses of the workers' urine revealed a significant relationship between dermal exposure and levels of chemical exposure markers in the workers' urine. The study exstimated that the dermal absorption contribution to total exposure dose of xylene and ethylbenzene was approximately 62 percent and 84 percent, respectively. "Our results showed that the contribution of dermal exposure to the total dose was important," the study said.

COMMENT: Respiratory protection alone is not enough protection if air monitoring shows solvent concentrations from spray painting to be above the TLV for the solvents. When mists or high vapor concentrations are present, chemically protective clothing should also be recommended. This study shows that ordinary shirts and pants are not protective during spray painting.


This article is copyright ACTS, June 2007 (ISSN 1070-9274), reprinted courtesy of ACTS FACTS, Monona Rossol, Editor, 181 Thompson St. #23, New York, NY, 10012, 212-777-0062, ACTSNYC@cs.com, http://www.artscraftstheatresafety.org/

* * *


How's that for disturbing? In only three days worth of monitoring, these painters--who clearly believed themselves to have adequate personal protective equipment in wearing long sleeve shirts and pants and air-purifying respirators--managed to get exposures above the TLV just from skin absorption. Something to think about next time you see someone go out to spray-paint something "real quick, just one thing," in, say, a tank top and shorts.
labricoleuse: (ass head mask)
Vocabulary word of the day:

vizard - No, it's not what Durmstrang students call Harry Potter. A vizard is the term for a mask on a stick! You know, the sort that ostentatiously-dressed lords and ladies carry and hold up like a freaky lorgnette at a masquerade ball.

(Bonus word: lorgnette - Glasses on a stick! Usually foldable.)

My graduate course this fall covers the engineering and production of masks and armor. As such, i've been reviewing various texts in the interest of determining what i'm going to require my students to own, and what's just going to be suggested or supplemental reading. As I've done in the past with my millinery course and my shoemaking course, i thought i'd post a quick run-down of some of the titles.


The Monster Makers Mask Makers Handbook, by Arnold Goldman.

This is a wonderful resource for a very specific kind of mask technique: full-head latex masks cast in a negative gypsum mold (think "Halloweeny rubber monsters"). It's a large-format 42-page booklet, like a full-sized magazine with a stapled binding, full color cover, and black and white interior. It is written in an easy-to-read, conversational tone, and is full of step-by-step illustrative photographs. It's got a nice troubleshooting section for problems you might encounter, and a glossary at the back of technical terminology.

My only criticism of the book is that once you get to the section on airbrush painting of the cast latex mask, it's a bit hard to envision what's going on colorwise with only black and white photography to look at. It would have been perhaps a better choice to insert a page of color photos for that section alone--the other sections on sculpting, mold-making, and casting are fine. All in all though, this is a great reference for negative casting in latex--it specifically deals with full-head masks, but the technique could be easily modified to do partial shapes as well (backless full-face or half-face masks). If you plan on making masks of this kind, this publication is well worth the money.



Masks: Faces of Culture, by John W. Nunley, Cara McCarty, et al.

Originally published as a companion volume to a vast exhibit of masks--first assembled in St. Louis, MO in the year 2000--both modern and historical works from cultures and traditions all over the world, this huge coffee-table-sized book is an amazing resource. It's filled with a wealth of information and an enormous number of full-color detailed photographs of all sorts of masks.

It's loosely divided into six chapters: prehistory and the origins of masks, rites of passage masks, festivals of renewal masks, theatrical masks, transvestitism masks, and masks worn for offense/defense purposes (including full-face armor helmets and sports masks). Each chapter reads like a thoroughly-researched academic treatise on its given subject. This volume is a great source of inspiration, historical and cultural research, and information on authentic materials--each mask photo's caption lists what the original is made from. It touches very little on how particular masks were constructed or on culturally-specific mask-making techniques, but has fascinating information on how and why the masks were worn in their original context. It carries a fairly spendy price-tag, so unless you do a lot of maskwork, costume design, or cultural anthropology research, you might rather look for it in libraries than purchase a copy.



The Prop Builder's Mask Making Handbook, by Thurston James.

This "industry bible" on the subject of mask-making, originally published in 1990, is now out of print. It is a useful text in many ways, but not ideal or up-to-date. Over half the 200+ pages are devoted to the masks of the Commedia dell'Arte and Italian leather mask-making techniques, which are certainly fascinating subjects but perhaps not of common use for the modern theatrical crafts artisan. (It would, however, be a great help if you found yourself doing a production along the lines of Julie Taymor's reknowned King Stag, in which every character wears a variation on a Commedia mask archetype.) The book presumes a free hand with the design of a mask on the part of the artisan, which in my experience is hardly ever the case with practical mask-making for theatre, of the sort practiced by folks like me.

There is a chapter on life-casting, which is a good basic grounding in the subject, but due to the age of the book does not address technological developments and process improvements that have occurred in the past 17 years. (For example, no mention is made of different grades of alginate and their varying set times.) There is now much more useful current information on life-casting to be found on the internet and through SFX industry resources, if that is where your interest or professional needs lie. Check sites like FX Supply and Replicants.org for info on modern prosthetics and FX casting.

The book is also a minefield of health and safety pitfalls--there's a chapter on celastic, a material now not commonly used due to chemical hazards associated with its manipulation, and my favorite: a photograph of a bare-faced man airbrushing with leather dye while smoking a cigarette. Hi, Hazard County! Makes me want to pencil in a caption in my copy: "Right about now, them Duke boys was sprayin' leather dye without no respirator..." It was published in an era before OSHA took serious notice of the theatre industry, before there were widely available resources such as the publications of the Arts, Crafts, & Theatre Safety watchdog organization. As such, the onus is on the reader to check for up-to-date health and safety precautions for the processes outlined therein.

Mr. James also doesn't address the mask design development process (which IME is best approached by way of maquettes--miniature 3D sculptures or "clay sketches"--as a basis for discussions with the costume designer and sometimes the director as well), probably because he is writing from a position of presumption that the artisan is also the designer, and at times he even implies that the artisan will also be the performer wearing the mask being created. I am certain there are several troupes in existence where the performers are also the mask-makers (local masque/mummery group Paperhand is one example that comes to mind), but by and large, it will be someone like me making another person's mask design for an actor to wear. It's important to understand all the R&D that leads up to the making of a mask--though it only addresses one specific method of mask-making, the Monster Makers guide reviewed above is a bit better on this front. Goldman at least addresses maquettes, though he does so in the context of haunted house/rubber-monster horror-film production rather than theatre.

I don't mean to sound like i'm completely denigrating this book and all copies should be chucked in the dumpster--it's got a lot of great process information, many illustrative black and white photos of steps in various techniques, and it's the only book that really addresses specifically a range of construction techniques within the context of masks for professional theatrical performance. It's simply written from a prop-builder's perspective instead of a craft artisan's, and is nearly 20 years old.


Costumes and Chemistry by Sylvia Moss

This is the best reference book out there, hands-down, bar-none, for those in the field of crafts artisanship. It is an indispensable bible of fantastic resources and, despite its high price tag, i highly recommend that anyone interested in costume construction buy it ASAP, PDQ! It was published in 2004, after years of grant-sponsored research and development, and thus may be the most up-to-date resource of its kind in the field of costume production.

It's divided into two halves, the first half comprised of materials and safety information, and the second half devoted to process explanation and documentation.

The first half covers an enormous range of products, divided by purpose (paint, adhesive, dye, etc.), type (cold process dye, acid dye, disperse dye, etc.), brand name, and so forth, and then goes on to test the efficacy of the product in a variety of situations (washfastness, lightfastness, dry-cleanability, etc.). As an aside, now would be a good time to reiterate the value of the website This-To-That, where you can plug two different surfaces into a form and get a list of recommended adhesives that will glue them together. But i digress.

Moss lists proper protective equipment for all potentially dangerous materials, clean up information, and warnings if applicable (i.e. "Do not clean up with bleach!") She worked with industrial health and safety advocate Monona Rossol to make absolutely sure that the information in the book was vetted for safe process instruction. The book would be worth its weight in gold as a reference volume just on the strength of the first half alone. The second half, however, is the gravy on the biscuit.

The second half is a compendium of an enormous number of specific costumes--walkaround mascots, monsters, masks, wings, crowns, body padding, armor--with precise information on how they were built, often with process shots, original design renderings, construction methodology, and tips from the artisans who made them. Some you will recognize from film and television, theatre, dance, advertising, all kinds of sources. There is no better insight into the costume engineering process than reading about how someone has done something and seeing steps along the way. Many incredible-looking costumes are demystified--once you read the process outlay, you may frequently find yourself thinking, "Hey, I could do that!" or "Wow, so THAT'S what they used!"

Seriously, i cannot sing enough praise about the quality and scope of this textbook; don't be put off by the title--it's not full of equations and molecules! It's a wealth of amazing, helpful, illuminative information for costume engineers, both veteran and aspiring. (Can you tell this is one of my required textbooks?)


So, there's an overview of four of my prospective texts, all of which will play some part in my course this semester. Pick and choose--one or more of them may be just what you've been looking for.
labricoleuse: (ass head mask)
The Arts, Crafts, and Theatre Safety organization publishes a monthly newsletter entitled "ACTS FACTS," which contains various media articles about cautionary safety topics pertaining to the fields of arts and entertainment. This month there is an article that I would particularly like to share with my readership, as it addresses large-scale character/mascot costumes (also often known in the industry as "bigheads" or "walkarounds"). The character/mascot production industry is one into which many crafts artisans enter at some point in their careers.

This article is reprinted by permission from ACTS FACTS, Monona Rossol, Editor--181 Thompson St #23, New York, NY, 10012--(212)777-0062, ACTSNYC@cs.com -- http://www.artscraftstheatresafety.org/. It's contents are copyright ACTS, April 2007.

Disney Learns Lessons About Costume Safety
Orlando Sentinel, www.orlandosentinel.com, Beth Kassab, 3/6/07


Thousands of performers at Disney parks around the world must deal with physically demanding conditions and injuries from their heavy and sweltering hot costumes, overzealous children and other hazards. These performers at Disney's four Orlando theme parks reported enough injuries in 2005 to affect more than a third of the 1,900-person work force.

The reason is the costumes portraying 270 different characters can weigh as much as 47 pounds. Weight was blamed for 282 out of 773 injuries, mostly to the neck, shoulder or back, according to reports kept by Disney during 2005, the most recent year available for the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). While some of the injuries were minor, the reports show that actors at Disney World were injured badly enough in cases in which the costume was cited as a factor to miss a combined 105 days of work in 2005. Actors were transferred to lighter-duty jobs for a month or longer at least 13 times that year because of costume-related conditions.

A burdensome costume head, typically a weighty part of the gear, was specifically cited in 49 cases, often resulting in neck or back strain. Mickey Mouse, Goofy, and Donald Duck heads, among others, were specifically mentioned in the reports.

Children or adults were listed as a cause in 107 injured, in which they pushed, pulled or otherwise hurt performers in costume. Some reports cited "excited" guests, characters who were "hit by guest," "jumping" children, "heavy" children and "child pulling on costume." Injuries from those incidents include bruises, sprains, and other ailments.

All told, the reported incidents ranged from a death in 2004 to minor ailments such as skin rashes. The death occurred when 38-year-old performer Javier Cruz died after he was hit and run over by a parade float backstage while dressed as Pluto. OSHA fined Disney $6300 because they had allowed employees to be in areas where they should not have been. But that incident also raised question about performer's poor vision while in costume.

Another issue is the heat that can build up in the costume especially in the hot Florida summers. Various gadgets such as fans, cooling tubes and ice vests were reportedly tried, but for the most part, they added more weight to the costume than they were worth. The gadgets tend to break, performers say, leaving them carrying additional pounds without any benefit. And in the dead of summer, performers reported that the ice in the vests melts before you get started.

Disney claims that in recent years it has recruited a former NASA engineer to address some of the issues on how the human body endures heat and weight. Disney also exchanges information with military researchers who examine the effects of heat and heavy loads on soldiers and has adopted some materials and techniques originally developed for the auto industry, Carol Campbell, vice president of Disney's character programs and development claims.

Disney also says it now provides classes for actors on how to bend down and pick up heavy items (such as the bag that contains their costume) and other ergonomically correct movements. And [sic] instructor-led warm-up class designed by sport-medicine experts at Florida Hospital is included at the beginning of each actor's shift.

COMMENT. ACTS would like to see Disney's finding made available to teachers of costume design in schools and universities. All of these issues of restricted vision, heat, and ergonomic factors should be incorporated into costume designing at the entry level in this profession.



I concur with ACTS' final comment--we artisans need to always be mindful of wearer-safety when creating costume items, and consideration of vision-range, interior heat, and overall weight must always be integrated from an engineering level, from concept to design to execution. I'll be teaching a course in the fall in maskmaking, which includes a section on bighead engineering and macropuppet costumes, so in a few months i'll be addressing this further on a practical, specific scale here in La Bricoleuse.

Incidentally, if you are interested in reading more about the circumstances surrounding the death of Javier Cruz, the incident is discussed at length here, on the Theme Park Insider forum, a discussion board for park workers and equipment operators and engineers.
labricoleuse: (Default)
I've been completely submerged in finishing up our final show of the season, Tony Kushner's revamp of Corneille's The Illusion, which opens Saturday. This past weekend was tech, but I actually had some downtime (though i had to stay at work and be on-call) for a few hours yesterday afternoon and finished a mockup for my super-fantastic custom-designed Lady Artisan's Apron.

Any female who's worked in a lab, workshop, or kitchen can probably go on at length about how much standard-issue bib aprons for any purpose simply don't function for the female form. They are never designed to actually accommodate a bust curve so they either don't adequately protect your chest area from splashback, or you look like the broad side of a barn. Or both. While i'm not the sort of woman who feels like a fugly waste of space if i don't have a full face of makeup on and cute shoes, wearing utility aprons has always been--for reasons of their design/construction--a necessary evil. But i asked myself: why? Why not instead create a flattering apron, where form follows function follows form? Why not make myself an apron i would be happy to wear all day long, day in and day out?

So, i decided to create my ideal work-apron: a bib style with a full 5-gore skirt modeled on the Edwardian walking skirt, of which the bib is actually both princess-seamed and bust-darted so it curves AROUND the boobal area.

instructions and photos )
labricoleuse: (Default)
The craftwork class i'm teaching this semester is a fairly broad introduction to millinery--it's challenging, in that it is aimed at production graduate students and presumes that those enrolled have advanced/couture sewing skills, but it also is designed for students who have had minimal or no hat-making experience. [livejournal.com profile] unluckymonkey asked me for recommendations on hatmaking info sources (specifically for felt hats), and that spurred me to make a post similar to the one a while back on my shoe class bibliography.


For the first unit, an overview of buckram hat form construction, i have the students read Tim Dial's book, Basic Millinery for the Stage. (It's a short book, so that goes quick.) It's a concise, straightforward overview of Mr. Dial's methods for stageworthy hatmaking, and if you've never made a hat or looked inside the "guts" of one, it's probably the best place to start. It's got photographs and diagrams to help elaborate on the text and is written in an easy-to-understand manner. If your interest in hatmaking is not for stage performance, bear in mind that Dial's book is aimed toward that--his techniques focus on speeding up production time and maximizing the durability of the hats. Stage millinery is slightly different from traditional millinery, in that traditional millinery employs meticulous handwork--often in a theatre milliner's construction, we'll substitute machine-stitching where possible in the interest of time-saving and durability.


The other required text for the course is Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking. This book is much more in-depth than the Dial book and features an appendix with miniaturized pattern shapes for a variety of historical hat shapes. (I've found that, though you can scale these up and use them as patterns, they don't always scale up perfectly and are better viewed as guidelines for the shapes you're looking to make than hard-and-fast accurate patterns.) In addition to being an accomplished milliner for stage and film, Dreher has an extensive background in the study of millinery history so the book includes a lot of interesting information on hatmaking techniques of the past--for example, she discusses willow, a material once often used in millinery but which is (to my knowledge) no longer produced. I found three sheets of willow in our storage (presumably from some bygone donation of millinery supplies), so the information on working with it will come in handy for me very soon. This historical aspect of the book is also of particular interest to milliners who might be refurbishing vintage or antique hats, and who might come across techniques or materials in the interior with which they are unfamiliar.


A book that you'll find in many workshop libraries, but which i personally don't care for, is Classic Millinery Techniques: A Complete Guide to Making and Designing Today's Hats, by Ann Albrizio and Osnat Lustig, and by "today's hats" they mean "hats of the late 1980s and early 1990s," as the book was published in 1998. It includes a lot of color photography and the sections on trim and feathers are helpful (particularly the photo-map showing the various types of feathers, which can be a great resource when ordering feathers sight-unseen from a feather dealer, to make sure you order the right types), but it's specifically aimed toward those wishing to pursue millinery from a contemporary fashion design perspective and thus, for theatrical purposes, contains a lot of superfluous information. Additionally, it contains several errors--such as the mislabeling of a photo which erroneously illustrates the difference between millinery grosgrain and grosgrain ribbon--that can be confusing to the novice milliner.

The book also works my nerves with respect to my major pet peeve, flippancy about artisan safety. While i recognize that safety education is sorely lacking in most trade fields and that nearly all reference materials for topics like millinery have some poor advice or omissions about protecting one's self from hazardous chemicals, it really jerks my chain when modern references are practically dismissive about such things--this book contains attempts at drollery in this vein, such as advising the reader to use chemicals that potentially pose respiratory hazards, then adding a parenthetical afterthought like "(Did you remember to open a window?)" Are you kidding me?

I know it's a nerdy-safety-goggley thing, but i truly believe that educators and experts do newcomers to the field a vast disservice by omitting serious discussion of worker safety. It's an oft-trotted-out trade workhorse to note that the phrase, "mad as a hatter," came from early milliners burning out their brain cells working with mercury-based felt sizing chemicals, but it's so oft trotted-out because it's a point of import that cannot be stressed enough: the onus is on the artisan to be vigilant, informed, and cautious about hazards in the workplace. Don't just "open a window, ha-ha," when working with solvent-based chemicals--get yourself a fit-tested mo-effen respirator with the right freaking cartridges and use it, please. Otherwise, well, enjoy your dalliance on that primrose path, but mark my words, that's the road to uncontrollable tremors and three-headed babies and such. There's a prevailing misconception that, because nobody's chained to their sewing machine in a burning shirtwaist factory, and because organizations like OSHA exist and laws are out there on the books, somehow we all live and work in safe environments. We don't, so be alert and tune up your BS-meter when reading reference books that don't adequately address precautionary safety measures. Costuming is fun, but it's a surprisingly dangerous job.

Wow, i think that's the first rant in this blog. Whoops! I try to keep it even-keeled and professional here, but this particular subject really gets me het-up. So...uh, back to your regularly-scheduled book review...



One book that's not useful for technique instruction but is indispensible as a reference for period shapes, research, and inspiration is Susan Langley's Vintage Hats and Bonnets 1770-1970: Identification and Values. It's written for a readership of collectors and dealers in vintage and antique millinery, but it's amazing for theatrical and historical costumers as well. It's divided into chapters by decade, each one beginning with a brief overview of what was going on at the time in fashion and the world in general, followed by pages of photographs and illustrations: period photos, modern photos of surviving period hats, catalogue illustrations, fashion magazine pictures from the time, all kinds of great stuff! My ongoing coal-scuttle bonnet project comes from a resource image in this book.


I also have a number of reprinted period sources in my shop's reference library, of which i'll mention two that are fairly easily obtainable. The first is Millinery for Every Woman, by Georgina Kerr Kaye. The original was published in 1926, but it's been reprinted by Lacis. Of particular use in my class has been the sections on working with velvet as a cover fabric and the extensive chapter at the end on creating garniture shapes from fabric and ribbon.

(Vocab: garniture, noun - an ornamental piece of decor on a hat or garment. Feel free to use this term where you otherwise might use words like "thingamajiggy" or "whatchamacallit" or "doohickey." I found it in a 1920s magazine article on making cockades for cloches and dropped-waist dresses that need an ornamental focal-point and i love it. GARNITURE, a word i have been looking for to no avail for ages!)


Another book we've perused for period shaping and draping techniques is Edwardian Hats: The Art of Millinery, by Mme. Anna Ben-Yusuf, first published in 1909. A good reference source, but also quite fascinating from an anthropological perspective--millinery being one of the trades a woman could respectably earn a living at in the period, the book also features some business advice on how one might run a successful milliner's shop from one's parlor, including information on bookkeeping, business costs, and market trends in hat fashion at the time. The book also includes some catalogue illustrations at the beginning from a publication called Correct Dress: Fall & Winter 1908-09 Cool stuff, if that interests you!

(Incidentally, i am dying to know more about Mme. Ben-Yusuf; all i know is that she was a millinery instructor at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, NYC at the turn of the century, and in addition to writing this book, she contributed a number of articles and columns to trade journals on hatmaking. I suspect that she was related somehow to the reknowned portrait photographer of the period, Zaida Ben-Yusuf, who maintained a studio in New York for a brief time in the 1890s-1900s. Her surname implies that she and/or her husband were of Arabic descent, but the trade moniker of "Madame Anna" suggests a European connection as well. A French mode of address ("madame") was common in the millinery trade, whether one had any French background or not, to give a fashionable "Parisienne" impression of the milliner to her clients, and "Anna" could be anything from Russian to Greek to Hebrew to Catalan, who knows. The prospect of, speculatively, two women, Anna and Zaida, sisters-in-law, immigrants, both making their living as reknowned and successful artists and artisans in Edwardian New York! Fascinating! Someone write me that as a novel, please. Or perhaps i should get typing and do it myself. Ha! Wow, i digress. You see though why at one point i thought i wanted a PhD in costume history.)


Again with the nerdy-safety-goggley warning: as with any period reference, there are some truly disturbing portions of these books--i had a grim laugh at the section on using gasoline to treat feathers and hat bases--so use your judgment when consulting them for practical advice on technique. Imagine: a millinery studio lit by gaslight, with milliners using gasoline in open containers... Egad.


[livejournal.com profile] unluckymonkey asked specifically for online resources, so here are a couple of links:

For an excellent glossary on hatmaking terminology and a wonderfully in-depth sidebar of links on all aspects of millinery, check out Hats UK. It's a website run by the British trade publication The Hat Magazine, and has a forum section for discussions and advice queries as well.

The Village Hat Shop has a wonderful page with links to photos depicting a wide range of millinery subjects, including blocking felt hats, designing hats, dyeing hats, etc.


In a related note, I'm excited that a recent La Bricoleuse article on straw hat rejuvenation got recommended on the Hartford York Hats blog! Dunno how they found me, but i appreciate the shout-out!



Got a favorite hat book, periodical, or website link? Please comment!



Oh, and! Not entirely unrelated, because there's a chapter on hat patterns in it, but i wanted to mention a book i recently bought and am super-excited about: Lion Brand Yarn Vintage Styles for Today: More Than 50 Patterns to Knit and Crochet. Each pattern is introduced with a period photograph or illustration depicting the garment worked and worn by a historically-contemporary model, then a modern photograph of the piece made with modern yarn and worn by a modern model. It's super cool to see, say, a grainy old tintype of a woman sporting a knit cardigan, then that same cardigan worked up today! I have obtained the yarn for my first project from this book--a cap-sleeve shrug taken from a 1950s original. One caution though: these are not exact reproductions of the original garments and won't result in finished products that will necessarily stand up to "period Nazi" critiquing. They've been modified to take into account modern undergarments and are intended to result in pieces that can be worn currently without period underpinnings like corsetry and such. I do think that from a crafts artisanship perspective, if you needed to create a period piece for a production, one could work backwards from the archival photographs using the patterns as a guide and recreate the antique garment with deductive modifications.

I guess my project of creating knitted spatterdashes (in which i did exactly that, work backward from a photo reference) had its intended effect: namely, getting me excited about expanding my skill at knitwork and crochet!
labricoleuse: (Default)
In the safety course i'm taking (Principles of Industrial Health and Safety for the Entertainment Industry), we have recently conducted formal hazard assessments for various tools and equipment commonly--or not-so-commonly!--found in our shops. We were encouraged to choose either a tool currently owned by the shop that might present particular safety issues, or a tool that we would like to purchase for the shop but not currently available.

I thought i'd share my overview here, both in terms of discussing costume craftwork applications for the tool i chose (an industrial heat press) and to present a framework you might choose to adopt or adapt, should you find yourself in a position to be documenting tool hazard assessments for your own facility.

The particular products i chose were these heat presses by Geo Knight & Co., designed for light usage. I chose the light-usage press because even with frequent use in a theatrical costuming context, they don't need to stand up to the sheer volume of usage that, say, a t-shirt manufacturing house might put them through, setting thousands of transfers per day, all day every day. They also fall into the range of being fairly affordable--$279 and $495 respectively.

The obvious use for the professional costumer is in transfer applications--it's very effective with the various "iron-on" printer papers, hobby and industrial heat-transfers, iron-on fabric applique techniques, and in quickly processing the application of a large amount of fusible interfacings and the like. It is also helpful in heat-setting textile paints and screenprinting inks, and can be used to stiffen up Fosshape thermoformable felt as well. These presses are fairly straightforward and simple to operate, and not very hazardous providing the user has been properly trained in their use.

I last worked with a heat press of this sort in the craft shop of the Los Angeles Opera, where we used it for a variety of craft and millinery applications, and boy, have i been starved for one here at my current employer! My dyeing and painting students have been heat-setting various class projects using a standard industrial iron, which allows for a much higher margin of operator error than these presses do. Instead of trying to get a uniform coverage and uniform temperature/time application by moving a hand-iron over an area, the presses allow you to accurately set the temperature of the heat surface (called the "platen") and the duration for which the press will engage.

Note: Usages above require the guarding of the platen with a presscloth or other barrier. Melting plastics and inks to the platen is hazardous and may also damage the press.

Also! I do not recommend the use of these types of presses to apply dimensional heat-transfer products such as heat-set rhinestones and nailheads. There are better tools for applying these products, such as jewel-setting irons.


So, what does an "official" tool hazard assessment of this piece of equipment look like?

This! )

Ideally, you would create these kinds hazard assessments for all the equipment in your shop. You would keep these on file in your record library and use them to determine proper operating and training procedures.
labricoleuse: (hats!)
Here's the (long-awaited, i know) third part of my four-part studio setup series!

Let me first man up and acknowledge that yes, i know i haven't gotten the backstage-sneak-peek of The Lion King up yet--i'm still embroiled in legalese because i don't want to get sued for violating any nondisclosure agreements or illegal photo usage. Disney is big on that. I promise, as soon as i get it straightened it out, it's coming! (I did eventually come through on Cirque de Soleil, did i not?)

For those who haven't been following this series, Part One is here, which addresses the equipment and inventory needs of a typical dyeshop or "wet room," and Part Two is here, which focuses on specific equipment and inventory utilized in leatherworking, distressing, and shoe-related areas.

As for why i first sat down to develop these lists, some background:

The MFA program where i teach allows the students to focus in a range of non-design areas of professional costuming: draping, tailoring, craftwork, or costume shop management. This semester's management seminar topic is "Sourcing and Supplies"--this is not just how and where to find everything from a spoon busk to an industrial shoe-patching machine, but also strategies for addressing shop supply inventories, storage, etc.

Earlier in the semester I gave a guest-lecture on the appurtenancing of a crafts space. The thrust of the matter was, what if a managerial candidate was hired and coming into a space where s/he had to either set up a crafts shop from scratch, or analyze the existing inventory of a crafts area and do supply ordering for the beginning of a season with no aid from a staff crafts artisan. I am posting a brief overview of what i touched on in a four-part series:

Setting up a Dye Shop/Wet Room
Cobbling, Leatherworking, and Distressing Equipment and Supplies
Millinery Equipment and Supplies
Specialized Crafts from Parasols and Purses to Plaster Molds

This post is the third in the series.

Bear in mind that not all craftspeople do millinery; as with the Dyer/Painter, sometimes the Milliner is a separate position within the shop. Many crafts artisans do find themselves responsible for millinery, though, and it is a good skill to hone regardless--often the principles of construction you learn in millinery can help in any number of other area of costuming, whether it be constructing underproppers for ruffs or wire-frames for headdresses or patterning of "propstumes" such as parasol covers and muffs and the like.

The first thing to address is equipment. If you intend to accomodate in-house millinery projects, you will likely need the following:

Head forms/"dolly heads"
Hat steamer
Hat stretcher (manual and/or electric)
Sleeve-arm domestic sewing machine with a zigzag stitch
Crown blocks
Brim blocks
Wire cutters
Needlenose pliers
Pinking shears

You can do without the brim blocks if you don't intend to make felt hats "from scratch"--you can always buy untrimmed plain felt hat shapes from dealers such as Manny's Millinery Supply in NYC. You will still probably want at least a couple of the plain domed wooden crown blocks for stretching buckram or shaping Fosshape on and the like.

You can also use a regular clothing steamer or fiddle around with a steam iron if need be, rather than invest in a hat steamer, but they do make hat steaming far more convenient and easy. Dolly heads are as necessary to hatmaking as dress forms are to draping, and skimping by substituting styrofoam headforms can be disastrous, as some of the chemicals and heat-processes used in millinery can melt styrofoam! I like to have a sleeve-arm domestic with zigzag accessible because it allows you to do some of your construction by machine (particularly edging brims with wire). Traditional milliners would probably have a heart attack over that, but in theatre sometimes you have to sacrifice handwork for speed.

In terms of inventory of "consumables," things that are depleted and replenished as hat projects come through the shop, here is a master list to get started with:

Buckram and double-buckram
Baby flannel/domette
Icewool
Low-loft quilt batt
Milliner's wire: white/black, light/medium/heavy weight
Tie-wire or joiners for milliner's wire
Bias tapes
Millinery & curved needles
Premade linings (dyeable!)
Milliner's grosgrain (100% cotton)
Various trims (flowers/ribbons/feathers)
Combs/horsehair/toupee clips
T-pins
Milliner’s glue (Solvent-based, "MagnaTac" is one brand)
Felt and straw
Sizing
Fosshape/thermoformable felt

Most of these items can be purchased from online suppliers. I feed my inventory orders for icewool and domette into my shop's yearly master order from Whalley's in the UK, but that's certainly not mandatory practice.

Note that this list is to be treated as suggestions, a jumping-off point. Also be aware that if the dimensions and ventilation of your craft space are limited, you may wish to avoid all products that would require the use of respirators. If you do use solvent-based sizing and adhesives that require respirators, be aware that OSHA requires you to have a training program in place for all employees that will need to use respirators. When ordering sizing and adhesives, make sure you always ask for the MSDS. You need to have them on file, and they have a lot of good information that will help make decisions like what types of protective gloves and respirator filters to purchase.

Keep your eyes open for the final installment in this series, coming soon! It'll cover a wide catch-all range of topics, everything from jewelry supplies to purse-frames!
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
I am taking a graduate-level industrial health and safety course specifically tailored to the arts and entertainment industries right now, and our first project was to conduct a material analysis of some product that we commonly use in our field of specialty. I chose to do mine on the color remover thiourea dioxide, which you may be more familiar with as a brand name: Thiox or Spectralite.

I wanted to share the results of my analysis here, because it may be useful as a reference or format guideline, should you want to write up your own for chemicals in your shop/studio or if you use this chemical as well. Our goal is to have a complete analysis of every product in the crafts area--clearly that will take some time to complete! And, if you've never heard of Thiox before, here's an overview of it. It sure can strip out color, but not everyone can use it safely.


Evaluation: Thiourea Dioxide (aka “Thiox” or “Spectralite”)

The MSDS for Thiourea Dioxide is available from Pro Chemical as a PDF file here.

Thiourea Dioxide (Thiox) is one of the three most-frequently-used chemical compounds available to costume painters/dyers in the removal of dye from yardage or garments, the other two being sodium hydrosulfite (Rit Color Remover) and chlorine bleach (Clorox). Of the three, it is in my experience the most effective at removing dye. It is easily obtainable from familiar dyeshop inventory source-companies such as Dharma Trading Company and Pro Chemical & Dye, though it cannot be shipped by air.

1.) Relative level of health risk:
Moderate. Particulate/dry form poses respiratory hazard, as does vapor given off from the bath when dissolved and heated in dye-removal process. Splash risk when transferring fabric to and from bath. Skin contact is hazardous as well.

2.) Fire hazard:
Moderate. Could combust if stored or used improperly.

3.) Unusual clean-up/waste disposal concerns:
Recommended not to release large-quantity spill runoff into waterways.

4.) Our ability to safely use the product as directed:
With proper PPEs (Personal Protective Equipment), I believe we can use it as directed.

5.) Conditions under which we can use the product:
Vent hoods on, windows open.
Skin, eye, and respiratory PPEs employed.
Used by trained employees only.
Used only as a “last resort”—other solutions should be explored first.
Stored in Flammables cabinet.

6.) PPE recommendations:
Neoprene apron
Neoprene gloves
Chemical splash resistant goggles
Respirator with OV/AG cartridges and particulate matter filter caps

7.) Recommendations for our use of the product:
a.) Product must be stored in the Flammables cabinet.
b.) Product should be used sparingly. Ideally, fabric/costumes should be pulled/purchased in the desired color, or if that is not possible, white or a lighter color that may be dyed to the correct color. Technicians dyeing garments or fabric should be highly skilled in dyeing processes to limit corrective need for product.
c.) Product should be used only by employees/grad students who meet the following criteria:
Fit-tested and trained in the use of respirators
Trained in the use of the dye vats
Completed the graduate seminar in dyeing and distressing,
including proper procedure of product’s usage
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
Here's the second part of my four-part studio setup series, but first i should give you guys a heads-up on a couple of very exciting things i've got coming up.

First up will be an in-depth report on the exhibit, What We Wore in North Carolina, a huge exhibit at the NC Museum of History in Raleigh, the first installment (of a planned two) of which just opened and runs through February 19, 2007. The exhibit covers over 200 years of fashion and reputedly has an excellent collection of antique pieces. I'll let you know all about it!

And second, admittedly exponentially cooler: I've swung backstage access to the wardrobe department of The Lion King. Reportage will be most assuredly forthcoming late next week. I'm so excited i might as well be doing the pee-dance. I did work on the rebuild of Julie Taymor's King Stag that the American Repertory Theatre did a few years back, and at that time i had the singular opportunities of being able to observe milliner Denise Wallace rebuilding those hats with the then-new thermoformable felt Fosshape, and myself refurbishing masks Taymor herself built originally around twenty years ago. Being able to see inside Taymor's TLK designs, particularly the ones that came out of the Michael Curry Design Studio...wow. I can't wait!


Now, to return to my series about setting up a crafts studio, today's focus is on shoe repair, leatherworking, and costume distressing supplies. Read more... )

Lastly, unrelated to upcoming posts here or setting up a studio, I recommend checking out Entwinements, the blog of the shibori studio of Karren K. Brito in Yellow Springs, Ohio. She's got a ton of really informative in-depth posts about her shibori artwear creations. Fascinating, creative, inspiring stuff!
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
The MFA program where i teach allows the students to focus in a range of non-design areas of professional costuming: draping, tailoring, craftwork, or costume shop management. This semester's management seminar topic is "Sourcing and Supplies"--this is not just how and where to find everything from a spoon busk to an industrial shoe-patching machine, but also strategies for addressing shop supply inventories, storage, etc.

I recently gave a guest-lecture on the appurtenancing of a crafts space. The thrust of the matter was, what if a managerial candidate was hired and coming into a space where s/he had to either set up a crafts shop from scratch, or analyze the existing inventory of a crafts area and do supply ordering for the beginning of a season with no aid from a staff crafts artisan. I won't replicate the entire lecture here, but i thought i'd post a brief overview of what i touched on in a four-part series:

Setting up a Dye Shop/Wet Room
Cobbling, Leatherworking, and Distressing Equipment and Supplies
Millinery Equipment and Supplies
Specialized Crafts from Parasols and Purses to Plaster Molds


Clearly the manager must evaluate the scope of the theatre's productions, the general per-show budget, etc., in order to determine to what extent crafts will be a component of the company's costuming. A huge, well-funded ballet company that builds several new pieces in-house each season will have entirely different crafts needs than a small theatre company that premieres small-cast modern plays. Shakespeare companies and children's theatre will often have larger crafts shops than regional serious-drama companies.

Assuming that one's company does have enough of a crafts demand to warrant the existance of a dedicated crafts space, the absolute bare minimum requirement is a separate "wet room" space for the use of dyes, paints, and adhesives--"hand" craftwork could be done on a cutting table in the main shop if need be.

These are the primary safety concerns of a dedicated wet room:

There must be adequate ventilation (size of room, windows, vent hood, fans?).
Food/drink must be prohibited in the space.
There must be adequate PPEs (Personal Protective Equipment) and dedicated PPE storage.
There must be safe flammables storage.

In addition, it's a good idea to have a crafts-specific dedicated washer/dryer, that only dye projects and other crafts laundry goes into. If there's space and money for an industrial steam-jacketed dye vat, awesome, but if not and your shop will have any amount of custom-dyeing needs, it should have at least a tabletop double burner and large (think like 20-gal) pot.


Dye Shop Equipment and Supply "Shopping List":

Dyestuff:
bulk Rit or other brand of union dyes
color remover
synthetic-fiber dyes
fiber-reactive dyes
thiourea dioxide
mordants/fixatives (soda ash, urea, etc)
bulk salt, bleach, white vinegar

Safety equipment/PPEs: check your dyes' MSDSs for requirements
aprons
gloves
goggles
respirators

"Hardware" equipment:
Gram scale
General measuring equipment (cups, spoons)
Binder clips
Clothespins

Note that this list is to be treated as suggestions, a jumping-off point. For example, some dyers don't like to work with union dyes at all, while other shops only stock them and nothing else. Also be aware that if the dimensions and ventilation of your wet room space are limited, you may wish to avoid all products that would require the use of respirators. If you do use dyes and chemicals that require respirators, be aware that OSHA requires you to have a training program in place for all employees that will need to use respirators.

You can get most of the hardware stuff at lab supply and restaurant supply distributors. There's a huge number of dye suppliers online, from small companies that sell only their line of dyestuff to huge clearinghouse type vendors that sell a wide range.

When ordering dyes and chemicals, make sure you always ask for the MSDS. You need to have them on file, and they have a lot of good information that will help make decisions like what types of protective gloves and respirator filters to purchase.

Keep an eye peeled--shoes and such will be the next in this series!
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
So, i don't feel like i can call this a tutorial, because this adhesive is fairly new to the theatre industry and definitely new to me. It was first recommended in the ACTS FACTS newsletter back in 2003 as a safer substitute for the carcinogenic solvent-based shoe-rubbering adhesive, Barge, by safety expert Monona Rossol. Ms. Rossol is reknowned for her work in furthering safety education among artists and craftspeople and is the author of many reference books on the subject, including The Health & Safety Guide For Film, TV, & Theater. Our company has recently acquired 5 gallons of the 1812, and i decided to test it out and see how it works!

1812 looks like a white glue--water-based, runny--but as it dries it goes through several phases, one of which is kind of slimy and weird like the floaty egg bits in egg drop soup, and finally ends up as firm rubber. I don't know where to tell you to purchase it easily--i know that we got it wholesale straight from the manufacturer, which is UPACO, a division of Worthen Industries. I predict that this will be one of those products that, like Foss Manufacturing's group of thermoformable plastics and felts, quickly becomes purchasable from retail businesses that cater to the entertainment industry, like Manhattan Wardrobe Supply and Backstage Hardware & Theatre Supply.

So, here's my "guinea pig" pair of boots:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

ten more pictures illustrating what i discovered... )
labricoleuse: (shoes!)
Rubberizing the soles of boots and shoes for stage productions is one of those recurring tasks that fall to the crafts department. A theatre company can save literally hundreds of dollars by rubberizing in-house rather than sending shoes out to cobblers for this service, provided there's a craftsperson on staff who can do it properly.

In this photographic tutorial, I will describe one process for rubberizing using the industrial solvent-based contact adhesive, Barge. Barge has been widely used in the shoemaking industry for years, but is a known carcinogen, so extreme safety precautions are required in its use. Theatrical safety experts have recently been urging the use of an adhesive known as Synthetic Latex 1812 as a less-toxic substitute for applications in which one would otherwise use Barge. I have just obtained some 1812 and will be conducting some future experiments on its usefulness in rubberizing--look for a forthcoming post soon!

For now though, 1812 is far from a universally-used substance in this application, and many shops do still use Barge for rubberizing. Thus, I'll write up the Barge process here first!

How to rubberize boots with Barge in 11 helpful photographs... )
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
It doesn't matter if you are using non-toxic household (or "union") dyes like Rit--you need to protect yourself and your shop from airborne dye particles! If OSHA regulations don't motivate you or the fear of health damage to your respiratory system, consider your product. Airborne dyestuff will leave spots on damp fabric sometimes even days after you measured out the powder.

Most of us who are independent artisans or theatre artists cannot afford high-tech particulate-protection equipment like airtight laboratory-quality glove boxes, so i present to you a quick overview of the next best thing: home-made dyeboxes.

photos and how-to info )

And, an unrelated blog recommendation: print & pattern, which features a lot of inspiring imagery for potential silkscreens, blockprints, and other textile surface-design projects. Check it out!
labricoleuse: (dye vat)
I know i promised that Cirque de Soleil Ka review, and i swear, it'll be up ASAP, complete with pix and presskit goodies and all that!

In the meantime, I thought i'd make a quick post on an admittedly less exciting topic near and dear to my heart, and one that's omnipresent in my professional life right now: shop safety requirements and studio overhaul.

See, I'm coming into a new position--this means i've inherited a craft shop space from my predecessor. This will be the second time i've done this overhauling-of-a-workspace process so while i'm not an expert, I'm no newbie greenhorn either.

There are three things I try to do when i come into a new space:

--maximize storage space for materials and tools
--develop an intuitive organizational system for the extant inventory
--improve upon existing safety conditions where at all possible

I began considering the first of these the moment i was offered the job. Though my contract at the time didn't start for another four months, i came into the workspace and drew out rough maps of both rooms (i've got a dry crafts room and a wet crafts room) with notations as to "permanent" fixtures--such as, say, a steam-jacketed dyevat anchored into the building's plumbing system--and what was up for moving or losing.

In this stage of the process, i always look for ways in which the current space is not being effectively utilized. Is there a lot of "dead air" in the upper areas of the room that could be filled with seldom-used-supplies storage? Where could you add some wall-mounted shelves, or get rid of superfluous clutter? What of the current systems in-use, are there perhaps better ways of rearranging them (i.e., replacing a beautiful but space-hogging old bureau full of hammers and screwdrivers and the like with a streamlined, more efficient tool-storage system designed for the purpose at hand...perhaps even on casters)?

For example, in my present space, an old library card catalogue was being used to store jewelry parts, and a filing cabinet served as a place to keep dyestuffs. The problem with these kinds of recycled-storage units is that they are space-inefficient. A filing cabinet is wonderful for storing files, but the sides of the drawers are only half the height of the fronts! Not so good for stacking full of tiny bottles of pigment and pints of liquid and the like! I'm replacing both units with storage systems that better utilize the space, considering the contents they will contain.

Organizational flow is something that has to be determined by the space and inventory of what you've got to work with. I find frequently that the "organization" of a craft shop has often been something that's grown organically, not necessarily in a logical fashion. The shop acquires some mass of crap from a generous donor--say, a bunch of vintage millinery supplies--and they all go into a box and shoved wherever they fit. Technology advances and we all embrace some new material, like Fosshape thermoformable felt, for example, and the new stuff gets stuck away into a closet full of unrelated old stuff.

It helps to have a means of rearranging your storage easily to keep up with the growth and change of your inventory--rubbermaid bins on shelves you can shift around as needed, or shelves of adjustable height. I also like to go through when initially coming into a shop and label EVERYTHING. Every drawer, every bin, every cabinet; this way, assistants have at least a fighting chance at finding things on their own without having to ask me all the time.

My main focus over the next couple of days, however, is MSDS documentation. Did you know that OSHA requires you to have one on-file for every chemical substance you use in your shop or studio?

Q. Heck, what's an MSDS? you ask.

A. It's a Material Safety Data Sheet. It lists off all kinds of useful info, like the ingredients, physical data like the substance's boiling point, hazards, disposal information, and first aid tips.

Most companies provide them online on their company sites, so you can print them right off the web. You can also use an online search geared toward MSDSs, such as MSDSsearch.com Chasing up an MSDS for every little thing you have in the shop from spray paint to hand soap can seem like a pain in the ass, but it's the law. And, in the process, you'd be surprised the useful stuff you can learn about the products you use in your work and art. At the very least, you might discover some stuff in your Flammables cabinet you could just harmlessly toss in a drawer instead...or vice versa!

January 2017

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