Artisan Focus: Jacki Blakeney Armit's classical pancake ballet tutu

[labricoleuse]

Ballet bodice and tutu construction methods are one area of focus all of our grads are required to explore in their third year as part of their collection of thesis projects [1]. Sometimes these projects are underwritten by ballet companies as part of our Supported Research program; the company will provide the rendering and materials and receive the costumes in return. This year, unfortunately, ballet companies are quite strapped for cash and could not participate, so all the grads did theirs as conceptual projects instead.

I have some final photos of 2009 MFA graduate Jacki Blakeney Armit's rendition of a snowflake ballerina costume design from Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite.


Tutu modeled by the lovely Flor de Liz Perez
in this and all subsequent photographs.


Back view


Oblique view


Detail view of bodice


Detail view of tutu plate

Jacki constructed the bodice and basque (the upper part of the tutu-panty) and then dyed them using an ombre technique, so the color gradually progressed from darkest at the ballerina's waist, growing lighter as it went up/down to white. The tulle layers of the tutu were also dyed progressively darker, so that they would match the color value and saturation level change of the bodice and basque. My only criticism is that the sparkle mesh of the upper bodice (which was not custom dyed, but was purchased as shown) needs a slight dip to blend better into the ballerina's skintone.

I wish i had a photograph of the original rendering from which this costume was constructed for comparison; that's something to make certain i remember to document next year.



[1] I believe the theory behind this is that since professional ballet companies make up a significant area of potential employment for our graduates, a comprehensive knowledge of production techniques for the creation of ballet costumes is a useful avenue of study, in terms of maximizing their future employability in the field. Even if a student's focus is, say, men's tailoring, it's better for one's overall career/resume to be able to work producing a new ballet in between tailoring jobs than to make up the downtimes doing office-temping or waiting tables.

Comments

I'm probably being too picky

[faunhaert.livejournal.com]

yes i think the top should match the skin color of the ballerina
so the lace flowers look like they float up and are dancing on her skin

maybe if they floated on the shoulder seams to make them a bit less notable?

the net the lace is sew on seems so visible on the tutu
is there a way to cut it back so its just the embroidery?
maybe the tulle ground should be the same blue he dipped.
it seems better done on the bodice or less visible
because its white on white

the outfit is beautiful and fits her just right

I've not tried make such garments
they seem so hard
they are lucky to have you as a teacher
he learned well from you

Re: I'm probably being too picky

[naeelah.livejournal.com]

Up close the lace mesh seems to visible, but IMO from a distance, it's the mesh that gives the frost effect. Since the lace isn't actually a snowflake design, I think it's the visible white that makes it look icy.

The skin mesh definitely looks out of place but the rest of it looks great.

Re: I'm probably being too picky

[(Anonymous)]

I don't believe that this tutu and bodice was made for this person she was just a model who fit the costume.

Re: I'm probably being too picky

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

You're right on this, which is another reason i wish i had an image of the original costume design, where the tutu plate clearly is meant to have a spiky snowflake shape on top of it.

The mesh is intentionally cut in that pattern to mimic the jagged ice crystal shape in the original (unfortunately unpictured) design.