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labricoleuseFirst up: forthcoming posts will include the final two segments of my studio setup discussion, backstage at The Lion King, and an exhibit review of the current costume history gallery at the NC Museum of History.
This post though is an overview of the crafts projects involved in the PlayMakers Repertory Company's current mainstage production, The Underpants, running through the end of the month at the Paul Green Theatre in Chapel Hill, NC.
Craft Builds
One thing I actually had to build for this show is the pair of fine suspenders depicted here on the gentleman on the left:
The designer had a very particular idea in mind of exactly the type of suspenders she wanted: this striped strapping, brass findings, this particular construction of button-tabs, Y-back. Our shopper was unable to find the exact suspenders so i made these in under an hour.
My other build was this weird fur piece:
The stole was comprised of two vintage fur wraps stitched together, reinforced and relined, with lots of extra dangly bits and limbs hanging off. It's a good example of why using vintage hides is not the best choice however--the skins themselves are weakened from age and it has to keep being repaired as the run progresses. If it'd been my call, i'd have suggested we either soft-sculpture it from faux fur or invest in new pelts.
Dyeing
This show saw quite a bit of custom dyeing in shades of white. Yes, you read that correctly.
I'm sure it's clear from the title, there are quite a few pairs of underpants in the play. All of them were turn of the century fancy drawers with lots of inset lace trim. All the fabrics and lace trims had to be dipped to the same shade of off-white, as with these bloomers in this photo:
This picture shows the ingenue's dress, the fabric for which was initially an overly-bright crisp white:
...so it had to be dipped down to an off-white as well. This happened before the dress was cut and assembled.
Two dye projects are visible in this stage shot:
One was dyeing that yellow contrast fabric on the apron to match a bit of yellow in the pattern of the main fabric, and the other was the tablecloth (technically a prop, but i dyed it for them because i'm big like that). The tablecloth was white, and initially was dyed deep pumpkin orange. Then the actual table underneath changed and they decided they wanted it back to a grubby yellowy shade. I had to strip the dye from the tablecloth with thiourea dioxide (super toxic--look for a forthcoming post on this chemical), then redye it the color you see above.
Distressing
This velveteen robe was a major distressing project:
It came to me custom-built (i.e., brand new and unworn). It went through a rigorous process of dyeing, fraying, sanding, abrading, spray-painting with diluted textile paints, and lastly, hanging on a plastic-covered dressform to dry after being soaked. Now, it's grubby and old and worn.
The character on the right here:
...is a poor barber, a man whose outfit is ostensibly his only suit of clothes. It began as a stiff, structured, tailored wool jacket and trousers; I soaked it and hung it on a form with weights in the pockets, then sprayed into it with textile paints and did some minor sanding and wear at the cuffs and lapels. The shirt is a natural linen, which gets washed but not pressed so it's wrinkly and sad-looking. Look at the "grime" along the cuffs and lapels of the jacket and in that breast pocket area. This is another good shot of that damn tablecloth.
This is a good depiction of the subtle toning with sprayed textile paints on this once-brand-new apron, around the pockets and hem areas:
...and yes, i also custom dyed that yellow fabric and matching panty lace on those brand-new German flag bloomers.
All photographs copyright 2006, PlayMakers Repertory Company; may not be reproduced without permission.
This post though is an overview of the crafts projects involved in the PlayMakers Repertory Company's current mainstage production, The Underpants, running through the end of the month at the Paul Green Theatre in Chapel Hill, NC.
Craft Builds
One thing I actually had to build for this show is the pair of fine suspenders depicted here on the gentleman on the left:
The designer had a very particular idea in mind of exactly the type of suspenders she wanted: this striped strapping, brass findings, this particular construction of button-tabs, Y-back. Our shopper was unable to find the exact suspenders so i made these in under an hour.
My other build was this weird fur piece:
The stole was comprised of two vintage fur wraps stitched together, reinforced and relined, with lots of extra dangly bits and limbs hanging off. It's a good example of why using vintage hides is not the best choice however--the skins themselves are weakened from age and it has to keep being repaired as the run progresses. If it'd been my call, i'd have suggested we either soft-sculpture it from faux fur or invest in new pelts.
Dyeing
This show saw quite a bit of custom dyeing in shades of white. Yes, you read that correctly.
I'm sure it's clear from the title, there are quite a few pairs of underpants in the play. All of them were turn of the century fancy drawers with lots of inset lace trim. All the fabrics and lace trims had to be dipped to the same shade of off-white, as with these bloomers in this photo:
This picture shows the ingenue's dress, the fabric for which was initially an overly-bright crisp white:
...so it had to be dipped down to an off-white as well. This happened before the dress was cut and assembled.
Two dye projects are visible in this stage shot:
One was dyeing that yellow contrast fabric on the apron to match a bit of yellow in the pattern of the main fabric, and the other was the tablecloth (technically a prop, but i dyed it for them because i'm big like that). The tablecloth was white, and initially was dyed deep pumpkin orange. Then the actual table underneath changed and they decided they wanted it back to a grubby yellowy shade. I had to strip the dye from the tablecloth with thiourea dioxide (super toxic--look for a forthcoming post on this chemical), then redye it the color you see above.
Distressing
This velveteen robe was a major distressing project:
It came to me custom-built (i.e., brand new and unworn). It went through a rigorous process of dyeing, fraying, sanding, abrading, spray-painting with diluted textile paints, and lastly, hanging on a plastic-covered dressform to dry after being soaked. Now, it's grubby and old and worn.
The character on the right here:
...is a poor barber, a man whose outfit is ostensibly his only suit of clothes. It began as a stiff, structured, tailored wool jacket and trousers; I soaked it and hung it on a form with weights in the pockets, then sprayed into it with textile paints and did some minor sanding and wear at the cuffs and lapels. The shirt is a natural linen, which gets washed but not pressed so it's wrinkly and sad-looking. Look at the "grime" along the cuffs and lapels of the jacket and in that breast pocket area. This is another good shot of that damn tablecloth.
This is a good depiction of the subtle toning with sprayed textile paints on this once-brand-new apron, around the pockets and hem areas:
...and yes, i also custom dyed that yellow fabric and matching panty lace on those brand-new German flag bloomers.
All photographs copyright 2006, PlayMakers Repertory Company; may not be reproduced without permission.
Underpants Commentary
Date: 2006-10-17 07:03 pm (UTC)