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labricoleuseMy students are hard at work on their parasol project--most are restoring antique frames whose canopies had rotted or were altogether missing. I try to do many of the projects in my courses along with or a step ahead of the students, so that i have a practical example for them to observe.
UNC has a large archival collection of antique clothing and accessories (many examples of which are accessible online at the CoSTAR costume archive's website). Some of these pieces histories are known, but many are anonymous donations or came to us so long ago that information as to their origin is lost. In the course of writing Sticks and Petticoats, i went through our antique parasol stock and sorted out what was in stageworthy condition, what might be restored to stageworthy condition, and what might be salvaged for parts in the restoration of other parasol frames. Among our stock i found this super-sweet little carriage parasol from the mid-19th century.
frame as found in stockroom
photo credit: Ryan Jones (used by permission)
This is the frame as i found it in a barrel full of parasols--no canopy whatsoever, but a completely intact frame with all mechanisms unrusted and in fine working order. The above photo is from my textbook on parasols, courtesy of my photographer, Ryan Jones. It shows how the handle can be folded for minimizing the size of the parasol for riding in a carriage, then extended with a sliding barrel-lock once the parasol-carrier alights.
I used the geometric drafting method in my textbook for generating a canopy pattern from a dome-less frame, and made up a new canopy in a taupe-and-black crosswoven silk dupioni, trimmed in hand-pleated ribbon bordering:
parasol with restored silk dupioni canopy
(note ruler for scale)
I often see parasols of this size of dome referred to as "child's parasols," which is possible, but it's also possible that they were carried by adult ladies who preferred a small canopy. Parasol dome sizes varied widely.
So, i wanted to cover this frame in such a way that it would not be limited to a child's use, and with a fabric that would be versatile enough that a change of trim could be enough to match it to a range of different costume options--thus, the choice of a brownish/gold/taupey changeable silk. We have a couple of beautiful dresses in stock in the gold/red/wine/taupe color-scheme, one in an embroidered silk noil and one in a striped dupioni; i decided to use this gold and red striped ribbon to trim out the parasol for now, since now it can be used with either of those dresses as-is. (I also enjoy how it has a sort of circus look to it, or a nautical flare...it's very versatile!)
Here are some detail images:
canopy close-up
(look at that sweet spike finial!)
closed canopy
(note ruler for scale)
interior view
A few notes on the interior:
First, note the pinked black twill ovals tacked around the frame at the hinges, denoted as git guards. You'll see these on most antique parasols; they act as a sort of abrasion-prophylactic, to keep the fabric of the canopy from becoming worn and weakened by the friction of the frame's opening and closing over time. This frame had no git guards, but attaching them with a heavy button thread was simple enough.
You'll also note the doughnut-shaped spike baffle--that serves the same purpose, protecting the canopy fabric from abrasion where all of the ribs meet in hinges at the top of the shaft. This frame was missing its spike baffle as well, but again, it was an easy thing to attach.
You can see that i've left my seams pinked--i'll be dropping in a sweet little cotton lining at some point. Note that seam allowances are pressed together and consistently directional in a radial motion.
Small functional parasols need to come back into style, i think--this would be easy enough to collapse and stow for a subway ride to work!
UNC has a large archival collection of antique clothing and accessories (many examples of which are accessible online at the CoSTAR costume archive's website). Some of these pieces histories are known, but many are anonymous donations or came to us so long ago that information as to their origin is lost. In the course of writing Sticks and Petticoats, i went through our antique parasol stock and sorted out what was in stageworthy condition, what might be restored to stageworthy condition, and what might be salvaged for parts in the restoration of other parasol frames. Among our stock i found this super-sweet little carriage parasol from the mid-19th century.
frame as found in stockroom
photo credit: Ryan Jones (used by permission)
This is the frame as i found it in a barrel full of parasols--no canopy whatsoever, but a completely intact frame with all mechanisms unrusted and in fine working order. The above photo is from my textbook on parasols, courtesy of my photographer, Ryan Jones. It shows how the handle can be folded for minimizing the size of the parasol for riding in a carriage, then extended with a sliding barrel-lock once the parasol-carrier alights.
I used the geometric drafting method in my textbook for generating a canopy pattern from a dome-less frame, and made up a new canopy in a taupe-and-black crosswoven silk dupioni, trimmed in hand-pleated ribbon bordering:
parasol with restored silk dupioni canopy
(note ruler for scale)
I often see parasols of this size of dome referred to as "child's parasols," which is possible, but it's also possible that they were carried by adult ladies who preferred a small canopy. Parasol dome sizes varied widely.
So, i wanted to cover this frame in such a way that it would not be limited to a child's use, and with a fabric that would be versatile enough that a change of trim could be enough to match it to a range of different costume options--thus, the choice of a brownish/gold/taupey changeable silk. We have a couple of beautiful dresses in stock in the gold/red/wine/taupe color-scheme, one in an embroidered silk noil and one in a striped dupioni; i decided to use this gold and red striped ribbon to trim out the parasol for now, since now it can be used with either of those dresses as-is. (I also enjoy how it has a sort of circus look to it, or a nautical flare...it's very versatile!)
Here are some detail images:
canopy close-up
(look at that sweet spike finial!)
closed canopy
(note ruler for scale)
interior view
A few notes on the interior:
First, note the pinked black twill ovals tacked around the frame at the hinges, denoted as git guards. You'll see these on most antique parasols; they act as a sort of abrasion-prophylactic, to keep the fabric of the canopy from becoming worn and weakened by the friction of the frame's opening and closing over time. This frame had no git guards, but attaching them with a heavy button thread was simple enough.
You'll also note the doughnut-shaped spike baffle--that serves the same purpose, protecting the canopy fabric from abrasion where all of the ribs meet in hinges at the top of the shaft. This frame was missing its spike baffle as well, but again, it was an easy thing to attach.
You can see that i've left my seams pinked--i'll be dropping in a sweet little cotton lining at some point. Note that seam allowances are pressed together and consistently directional in a radial motion.
Small functional parasols need to come back into style, i think--this would be easy enough to collapse and stow for a subway ride to work!
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no subject
Date: 2008-04-09 08:59 pm (UTC)I just took a parasol-recovering class courtesy of the Bay Area Costumer's Group and recovered a modern frame in gray silk taffeta, pink China silk lining. Once I have finished pleating the silk for the finial I am planning on taking it to work and using it when I have to move from building to building.
no subject
Date: 2008-04-09 09:04 pm (UTC)Your parasol sounds lovely--a pink lining is usually a complexion-flattering choice. I was thinking of lining this one in a pink and white stripe, or something pink with a tiny white diaper pattern perhaps.
no subject
Date: 2008-04-09 09:07 pm (UTC)I love the idea of the pink with the tiny diaper pattern -- where will you find it? The texture would be a charming contrast.
no subject
Date: 2008-04-10 01:41 am (UTC)I'll be working this summer in NYC, so i figure if i can't find anything suitable in our fabric stock, i'll surely find something in the garment district shops!
(Incidentally, the descriptor "diaper pattern" always makes me chuckle a little, imagining little baby-nappies printed all over a length of fabric.)
no subject
Date: 2008-04-09 09:35 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-04-10 01:50 am (UTC)I have these images in my mind of the sort of person who might carry this parasol--a fashionable ingenue in a sailor-collar bodice with a matching hat, a severe dowager in a militaria-inspired suit with a straw boater whose band is of the same ribbons as the trim, a lady circus-dwarf with a vaudeville costume who balances it while doing an equestrian act, or a mustachioed effete gentleman at the beach in a singlet-style period bathing costume (gold and red striped, of course, like a happy Sweeney Todd)!
no subject
Date: 2008-04-24 08:21 pm (UTC)Personally, I have a little collection of "children's" umbrellas instead of the modern retractible sort. Legal on airplanes, harder to lose, inexpensive, and often make folks smile on rainy days.
Antique Carriage Parasol Restoration
Date: 2008-10-01 02:00 pm (UTC)What's up with you guys hair do??? BOTH of you look like the 1900's...DO you guys have a hung up on that era?
Sorry, but the hair was the first thing that caught my eye when I opened the page. Your hair style stands out more than the parasol :(((
Re: Antique Carriage Parasol Restoration
Date: 2008-10-01 02:27 pm (UTC)The icon on my journal is titled "vintage hair" and depicts an example of a period hairstyle. (I don't walk around in daily life with my hair that way, though even if i did, i don't see what concern it would be of anyone else.) I teach a graduate class that addresses period hairstyles of different eras and how to create them with actors' hair or using wigs and hairpieces.
This journal often covers subjects on how to recreate period garments and styles for the theatre, so i thought the "vintage hair" image would be a fun icon to use as a default.
I wouldn't say i'm "hung up" on any era--my job requires me to create costumes from many time periods, cultures, and even sometimes fantasy worlds.
pest control?
Date: 2011-04-25 10:51 pm (UTC)I've recently become fascinated with parasols and have covered a few (thanks to your book!) and started buying old frames almost compulsively LOL
But... I read a warning somewhere (www.marquise.de?) about potential infestation with bugs in antique/vintage parasols. Indeed I've seen clear evidence of carpet beetles in a couple of otherwise exquisite (but disintegrating) silk- and lace-covered antiques. Do you have a good solution to keep your parasol frame collection from infesting your home or workshop with moths, carpet beetles, or even bed bugs? Am I just paranoid? Some frames I've stripped immediately, tossed the fabric, then vacuumed the work area. But some I want to study more closely and document because they have lovely details of lace inserts, or ruffles, or pagoda construction, or whatnot. And I want to save the lace!! Small enough (carriage!) frames I have sealed in bags and put in the freezer 2-3 times like I do for moth-attacked sweaters.
But I don't have a big enough freezer for non-folding parasols! What to do? For now they are sealed in plastic bags, but I don't really want to use toxic and possibly damaging chemical on them.
Thanks for any insight you can share!
Re: pest control?
Date: 2011-05-10 04:09 pm (UTC)I admit, I have no personal experience with insect infestations of antique parasols. However, I have some thoughts about what you might do to assuage your concerns.
I gather that heat will drive out a carpet beetle infestation--some sources recommend a clothing dryer on high, so I imagine one could treat a parasol frame by placing it in front of a space heater or using a hair dryer on high (being careful not to start a fire, clearly).
I would bet you could also seal the frame and cover inside a plastic bag such as a dry cleaning bag with mothballs or cedar chips and that might do the trick.
And lastly, I gathered that the dry cleaning process will get rid of them too. I am sure you have to sign a release with a dry cleaner for them to send a parasol through the process but if nothing else worked, it might be a last ditch effort.
I'm so pleased to hear you've gotten bit by the parasol bug, pardon the pun. It's wonderful to know what others have done with the information in that book. If you have any photographs of your work, I would love to see some of your parasols!
Re: pest control?
Date: 2011-05-19 02:01 am (UTC)I do have some pictures. Critique is welcome (bear in minds theses are my very first attempts). Pictures available here: http://professorbats.deviantart.com/art/Black-pin-stripe-parasol-208132263
with more here: http://professorbats.deviantart.com/gallery/
So far these three are modern frames, but next one I'll be brave enough to do a vintage.
The blue one came out a bit "sagging" for some reason, not sure if it's the fit that somehow was less precise, or the choice fabric. I still like it though. It was actually also my first project using French seams, although I've been sewing for near two decades!
Re: pest control?
Date: 2011-05-19 04:18 pm (UTC)That looseness that you're seeing in the blue one could be due to a couple of factors--it depends on the tightness of the weave of the fabric, stitch length on the seams, and maybe even fiber content, but usually I see that happen when I'm not getting enough stretch on the bias down the seams over the top of the ribs, or when the general height of the panel triangle from base to apex is too tall.
Rather than taking out French seams, you could test this theory by moving your rib tips up a little bit, maybe just a quarter or half an inch, to see if it makes the sagging go away. if that does it, admittedly it would cause your beautiful paisley motifs the shift a bit further down the panel, since if it works you probably want to rehem the edges. or, just something to think about for next time. It's lovely regardless.
And, I love that vintage handle on the pinstriped one! Super cute with the dotted net lining you put in and edge ruffle. Thank you so much for sharing the pictures.
Re: pest control?
Date: 2011-05-19 08:15 pm (UTC)I think I will leave this one as is, I'm afraid of messing up the center area since I stitched on that extra piece in order to utilize the embroidered pattern again. I guess I'd have to undo that, and re-attach it. I like it enough as is that I will just copy and save your tips for future reference. As you pointed out, that's a synthetic, intended as drapery fabric, so maybe not the best choice for this, but I couldn't resist the paisley and color combination!