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labricoleuseOne of the most excellent things about where i work is the presence of the CoSTAR historical clothing archive. This means that we frequently receive donations of antique garments in various stages of preservation. Today, we received one such dontation of 19th c. ladies attire that was in utterly pristine archival condition. I took some photos to share here on the blog, though i'm sure these pieces will be steamed and pressed and formally catalogued, photographed, and show up in the archive soon enough.
These pieces were part of a large donation by Ms. Helen Tibbo, a local benefactress who told us that they were the property of her ancestress, a Mrs. Isaiah Howes of Nantucket, MA. From a date label sewn into the garments we can place them as having been completed and delivered in March of 1877.
This gown is made primarily of what feels like a lightweight silk crepe, figured all over with narrow cord embroidery. It's trimmed in a lush rust velvet ribbon and a fringe comprised of glass beads and silk thread pompons. The hat is a tiny velvet creation covered in triple-layer plumes which have been dyed to match and curled. The bustle skirt, bodice, and hat ensemble were created by L. P. Hollander & Co. of Boston, according to a wide woven name-tape label in the bodice's center back waist. From the Boston Foundation's publication, "Boston Foundation Donors: There from the Beginning," I was able to glean the following information:
Regarded as "Boston's most perfect store," L. P. Hollander & Company was established by a pioneering businesswoman of the 19th century. Under the direction of her son, Theodore Hollander, the store opened branches in New York, Newport and Paris. A far-sighted businessman, Hollander sold the company in 1930 for $3 million.
The store was apparently located on the site of what is presently the Four Seasons hotel. I couldn't find any period documents contemporary with the donation dress, but i did locate an image of a receipt from 14 years later, containing some lovely fonts and handwriting and such. Here's that plus several more images of the ensemble from various angles, details, etc.:
back view
left side of skirt
There's a crazy amazing wire bustle cage under this thing.
right side of skirt
Check out that fabulous ribbon garniture!
Look at that beautiful little kick-ruffle under there!
Aww, one missing button! :(
In the same donation, there was a number of amazingly detailed mourning garments, a matching hat and muff set made up in citrine green silk velvet with brass bouillon trim, and this amazing black parasol:
parasol held by Amanda Phillips, for scale
The parasol is black silk with a carved ebony handle, which is rhomboid in cross-section. Rib tibs are also carved ebony, in the shape of tiny representational acorns. Parasol cover is plain black silk, with a ruched ferrule ornament and two interior rosettes ornamenting the mechanism. Shaft features a tassled wrist-loop of fine black twisted cord. The parasol is in amazing condition, and the frame is in excellent shape. It's got an unusually large canopy and a particularly long ferrule. I could find no information anywhere on it as to its age or maker, but i'd guesstimate that it's fairly contemporary with the rest of the donation (late 1870s-1880s).
Hope you enjoyed seeing photos of and reading about this amazing ensemble! I certainly am fortunate to have been able to see it in person.
These pieces were part of a large donation by Ms. Helen Tibbo, a local benefactress who told us that they were the property of her ancestress, a Mrs. Isaiah Howes of Nantucket, MA. From a date label sewn into the garments we can place them as having been completed and delivered in March of 1877.
This gown is made primarily of what feels like a lightweight silk crepe, figured all over with narrow cord embroidery. It's trimmed in a lush rust velvet ribbon and a fringe comprised of glass beads and silk thread pompons. The hat is a tiny velvet creation covered in triple-layer plumes which have been dyed to match and curled. The bustle skirt, bodice, and hat ensemble were created by L. P. Hollander & Co. of Boston, according to a wide woven name-tape label in the bodice's center back waist. From the Boston Foundation's publication, "Boston Foundation Donors: There from the Beginning," I was able to glean the following information:
Regarded as "Boston's most perfect store," L. P. Hollander & Company was established by a pioneering businesswoman of the 19th century. Under the direction of her son, Theodore Hollander, the store opened branches in New York, Newport and Paris. A far-sighted businessman, Hollander sold the company in 1930 for $3 million.
The store was apparently located on the site of what is presently the Four Seasons hotel. I couldn't find any period documents contemporary with the donation dress, but i did locate an image of a receipt from 14 years later, containing some lovely fonts and handwriting and such. Here's that plus several more images of the ensemble from various angles, details, etc.:
back view
left side of skirt
There's a crazy amazing wire bustle cage under this thing.
right side of skirt
Check out that fabulous ribbon garniture!
Look at that beautiful little kick-ruffle under there!
Aww, one missing button! :(
In the same donation, there was a number of amazingly detailed mourning garments, a matching hat and muff set made up in citrine green silk velvet with brass bouillon trim, and this amazing black parasol:
parasol held by Amanda Phillips, for scale
The parasol is black silk with a carved ebony handle, which is rhomboid in cross-section. Rib tibs are also carved ebony, in the shape of tiny representational acorns. Parasol cover is plain black silk, with a ruched ferrule ornament and two interior rosettes ornamenting the mechanism. Shaft features a tassled wrist-loop of fine black twisted cord. The parasol is in amazing condition, and the frame is in excellent shape. It's got an unusually large canopy and a particularly long ferrule. I could find no information anywhere on it as to its age or maker, but i'd guesstimate that it's fairly contemporary with the rest of the donation (late 1870s-1880s).
Hope you enjoyed seeing photos of and reading about this amazing ensemble! I certainly am fortunate to have been able to see it in person.
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no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 09:21 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 09:33 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 09:38 pm (UTC)Would love to see the cage bustle.
no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 03:20 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 09:57 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 09:58 pm (UTC)And that parasol is in stunning condition! Well, it all is, but I've just seen so many shattered parasols & so very few perfectly intact canopies that I'm esp. impressed by that.
no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 10:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 10:31 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-10 10:57 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 12:44 am (UTC)These are beautiful! Someone donated them?!
no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 03:28 pm (UTC)And yes, they were part of a donation. Because we maintain what i believe is currently the only extant online historical costume archive of its sort housed at a state educational institution, people frequently donate antique clothing, often either because they have inherited the pieces from a deceased relative and recognize their historical value, or because they themselves are elderly and want to do something philanthropic with such things before they pass away.
I used to work in loans and acquisitions for the costume collection, and one of the perks of the job was hearing the stories about the garments from the donors. Since i'm no longer in that position i don't know what sort of stories this dress might have in its history, so i guess i will have to imagine them myself!
no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 03:57 pm (UTC)LP Hollander & Co.
Date: 2007-10-09 01:13 pm (UTC)I am trying to find out more information about LP Hollander & Co. Do you have any resources that you can direct me to for info about Mrs Hollander. Please email me at tracylyons1@yahoo.com if you have any leads.
Thank you.
Re: LP Hollander & Co.
Date: 2007-10-11 07:28 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 12:57 am (UTC)