Ask La Bricoleuse: Where do you buy "dance rubber"?

[labricoleuse]

I have been rubberizing tons of shoes for Big River, and i recalled a post that came up on the USITT costumers' email list; i thought it might be a good idea to post my answer here for Googlability's sake.

Basically, someone asked where to order "dance rubber," and what were some brands folks would recommend. Here's my response:

I stock the Vibram ProTania in black and natural, and the 3.5 grid soling in black, oak, and white (the white will take dye)..

http://www.frankfordleather.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=b4x&Category_Code=Soling

http://www.frankfordleather.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=vib7673s&Category_Code=Soling

The 3.5 grid sole is what folks have called "dance rubber" in many of the shops i've worked at, and the Vibram ProTania is the stuff that's got the word "Vibram" printed across the tread.

I use the Pro Tania on most of the shoes i rubberize (like Stacy Adams boots and other leather sole shoes) for performers who will not be dancing or doing fight choreography, and the 3.5 on shoes where the designer or actor specifically requests "dance rubber".

I've worked in shops where they stocked the Chevron and Herringbone sole rubbers Frankford sells on that same page and liked them, they're grippy with directional treads a bit beefier in texture than the 3.5 grid sole and the Pro Tania.

We also stock something that I hear called "fight rubber" which has SUPER grippy directional treads. It's a product called Maxi-Grip, and you can order it from National Shoe. I use this to rubberize shoes for actors who are doing something like swordfight choreography.

I don't care for the Topy, it doesn't seem to provide as good a gripping surface for the kind of activity actors typically require, and is harder/denser (thus seems slipperier) than the two linked up there.

Incidentally, here's a pro tip for rubberizing a LOT of shoes: learn some work songs with a good driving rhythm. Hammering with your mind not engaged gets boring really fast, but if you sing something like, say, Pete Seeger's "The Hammer Song," you can maintain a good rhythm hammering the soles efficiently, and it really does make it go faster.

Comments

yes!

[erin larkin (from livejournal.com)]

Thank you so much! We constantly have need for this, and what little research I did years ago turned up nothing useful. I've been getting the local shoe shop to do them for $40 a pop! reluctantly! when begged to! They always seem to glue the rubber on, and it tends to peel off at the toe, or at a corner first. By "hammering", are you nailing it into the sole with brads? 1/4 inch or so?

Re: yes!

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

No, i don't typically nail the rubber onto the soles. I use Barge adhesive, which must be hammered in order for the strongest bond to occur--it's the same process that the shoe shops do. (And, when they get the "talking toe syndrome" you mention, i fix them the same way.)

Here is a PDF tutorial i wrote and provide to all my assistants and graduate students on how to do in-house rubberizing:

http://www.sendspace.com/file/4kpjxr

...which will illuminate better the "hammering" part of the process!

Re: yes!

[erin larkin (from livejournal.com)]

You are officially worth your weight in gold. I have never heard of the hammering, although I have used Barge cement for shoe repair. I thank you so much for your generosity!

I started using DAP Weldwood Contact Cement in place of Barges. I'm not sure if it stands up to shoe work as well - have to try some side by side testing. But, I was using it for poly foam work a lot too, and it comes in quart jars at most hardware stores, so it was more convenient and saved money. I will get some Barges and try some hammering. Thank you again!