labricoleuse: (design)
[personal profile] labricoleuse
My grand plans for writing about the conference while at the conference really went the way of the dodo, given how much truly fabulous stuff there was this year in the programming schedule, and how many old friends, colleagues, and former students i met up with.

So, perhaps this coming week or so i can play catch-up and do a series of posts on the conference. I have dozens of photos, piles of literature, links to resources in abundance, and a wealth of notes on panels and sessions, many of which were just stellar. (For example, at some point i'll be covering Disney's panel on their digitally-printed fabric division, and two brilliant presentations by renowned puppetmaster and mask artisan Bob Croghan! Too cool!)

Let's start though with the visual and the pretty: floor exhibits! Last year, you may recall (or wish to now peruse) the photopost i shared of these elements of the Stage Expo, in which temporary exhibitions of collections of work are set up for the duration of the conference.



The Gene London Collection


Costume collector Gene London generously loaned selections from his huge (over 60,000 garments) collection of fashion and costume, thanks to a serendipitous encounter with a member of the Costume Commission who repaired and restored some of his pieces. Conference attendees who got into the "Examining the Personal Collection" session had the privilege of seeing the interior construction of these pieces and how they were exhibited on the forms. Here are some highlights from the exhibit:

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Embellished velvet gown by Erte

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Velvet and satin Erte gown and millinery design
(could've used a good steaming, huh?)

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Ballet doublet designed by Erte

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Silk jersey and charmeuse gown designed by Helen Rose
for Anne Sheridan in The Opposite Sex
(Back view of a Bob Mackie design for Raquel Welch in the background)

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Bob Mackie design for Raquel Welch

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Schiaparelli design for Joan Crawford

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Beaded gown and jacket worn by Clara Bow to a film premiere in the 1920s

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Another beaded 1920s confection and the (rather unattractive) back view of that earlier Erte gown.



Too Much is Not Enough: Exploring Harriett's Closet


Harriett Lake's enormous wardrobe of 4500 items spanning six decades provided the pieces for this exhibit, which varied from Chanel designs to off-the-rack items. I took a couple pictures for future reference:

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I loved the construction of this swag of necklace chains mounted on the collar band.
The hat featured some great hand-forming but didn't photograph well.

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Heavily-beaded fur-trimmed jacket with peacock feather motif




John C. Scheffler: Designs for Stage and Street


Scheffler's exhibit was subtitled, "The 55-Year Parade," featuring costumes from the Legends of Gold Mardi Gras krewe. There were some truly incredible renderings, and a krewe costume with a huge feathered fantail on exhibit for close inspection:

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costume designs

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more costume designs

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still more designs

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train embellishment designs

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...and, one bit of own-horn-blowing, an image of my contribution to the Cover The Walls exhibition of all areas of theatrical design (sets, props, costumes) by USITT members:

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My exhibit on Shipwrecked! costumes for the Cover the Walls exhibition.

Wow. Just...wow.

Date: 2011-03-13 02:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladycelia.livejournal.com
Man, some of these are gorgeous.

Realizing that there will have been some color shifts over the years, it looks to me like the Joan Crawford dress is trimmed with silver and turquoise, and that the Clara Bow coat has a kind of purple cast. Is that correct?

The Erte with the asymmetrical overskirt appears to have a bit of the satin that comes up through the left-hand side of the cage. Do you happen to have any additional photos of that piece?

Thanks for showing these, there's some amazing work here.

Re: Wow. Just...wow.

Date: 2011-03-13 03:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] labricoleuse.livejournal.com
Those were the colors that they appeared in the exhibit, yes. Really lovely. Somewhere i have a velvet cloche i inherited from my aunt in the same shade of purple as that Bow gown.

And, no, i didn't get any other pix of the green/black Erte, though i suspect tons of other ppl took pictures of it, so perhaps if you put out a general call of interest and troll some of the costumer's communities other attendees may have pix up? Or if there is a USITT facebook group perhaps?

Re: Wow. Just...wow.

Date: 2011-03-13 03:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladycelia.livejournal.com
I'll scrounge around the 'net and see what I can see.

It's interesting that the Clara Bow dress is so form-fitting. Not a stylish line for the time, but certainly suitable to her public persona.

Re: Wow. Just...wow.

Date: 2011-03-13 03:34 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] labricoleuse.livejournal.com
I wasn't in the session that got to see inside of these, but i wonder whether that Bow gown has a clip at the back or was dressed on the form to pull it in at the waist by someone who was used to styling store displays, to make it more of a modern-eye silhouette, because that nip in doesn't make sense for the period. Or, as you say, perhaps she wanted some figure definition regardless of the current fashion at the time.

Re: Wow. Just...wow.

Date: 2011-03-13 03:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladycelia.livejournal.com
It may just be the way the light is hitting it, but it looks to me like it has princess seaming, which would tie in with a non-fashionable, but personal style type design.

ETA: Or it could be the weight of the dress making the seams of the mannequin show through.
Edited Date: 2011-03-13 03:37 pm (UTC)

Date: 2011-03-13 04:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lovefromgirl.livejournal.com
The lavender Helen Rose screams "OSCAR!" to me--would have loved to put someone in something like that. :) I am also rather in love with the grey peacock-feather jacket. Was there a pewter satin dress underneath, or was I just seeing lining? If the latter... well, I'd wear it with a dress that shade. Just sayin'. ;-)

Date: 2011-03-13 04:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] labricoleuse.livejournal.com
I think it was actually a black dress, in a shiny weave like satin or taffeta so the shine's making it look silvery, but i'm with you: pewter would be fabulous!

Date: 2011-03-13 06:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dreamsofpaprika.livejournal.com

Wow, these are great designs, especially the costume sketches! I love the 1920s so much, even though we look back now and say, ''What were people thinking?'', but everything they wore was so flamboyant yet eccentric, which was really cool!

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