Project: 1950s perch hat reproduction

[labricoleuse]

At PlayMakers, we are well into production on our first mainstage show of the season, Shakespeare's As You Like It. Our costume designer, Anne Kennedy, found a hat that she loved for the character of Rosalind, but it was a completely unacceptable color. It fell to me to make a reproduction.

Here's how i did it!


This is the original period hat that Anne loved.
Too bad it's dusty pink; the costume is periwinkle blue.


This original is a blocked buckram form covered in sculpted felt foliage.
We also wanted something softer and fresher.


I found these silk flowers in our flower stock,
which perfectly matched the Rosalind dress fabric!
Here they're pinned on the original hat for a visual,
to see if Anne liked them.


I didn't have a block of the correct shape to block the base,
so i flat-patterned it with darts and a seam, and steamed it into
the appropriate curvature.


My crafts assistant, undergraduate costume assistant Caroline Long,
disassembled the pile of flowers into their constituent parts for
application to the buckram foundation.


Here is the hat after it has been wired, mulled with icewool,
covered with silk crepe de chine. I am arranging some blue lily
petals across the back, tiled like the leaves on the original.


Here's the finished hat!


Pretty cute!

My millinery class has buckram hats due next week, so soon i'll have a post with a BUNCH more exciting hats to share.

Also! Have you ever used the online archives of CoStar for professional and academic research?

If so, please comment with the context and purpose. (Example: "I used it for seamline references and interior structure info when recreating a historical garment for Plimoth Plantation," or "I used it for research inspiration when designing costumes for Lady Windermere's Fan at Arena Stage.")

I am thinking about writing a grant that is related and i'd love some specific info on this topic! Thanks!

Comments

[barriequark.livejournal.com]

Gorgeous hat! Now I have to make one!

I hadn't even known about the CoStar site, but now that I have seen it I will use it a lot! I am an artist as well as a costumer and I always need period clothing photo reference to draw details and get inspiration.

[textileowl.livejournal.com]

I hadn't realized you had finished the CoStar project! If I recall correctly when I came down two years ago, UNC was still in the process of putting CoStar together.

I will certainly use it now, or at least remember it for when I am working on later period items.

[labricoleuse.livejournal.com]

It's not remotely finished! This is just what pieces have been documented and uploaded. The current site catalogues maybe around 10% of the entire collection. Our research assistants are always adding to it.

[textileowl.livejournal.com]

Ah, ok. I think last I heard the database wasn't online. Now I know to check it every month or so for new goodies.