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I'm really excited about the new interview component of the blog, and the broadening scope it brings to the content here. I'm hoping to use the interviews to focus on professionals in costume production and related fields (like millinery!), and hopefully to bring visibility and insight into the range of careers and types of employers out there. And, i think it'll be a great way to expand the voice of ![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
labricoleuse to include other perspectives--this blog serves as a fairly comprehensive document of my own opinions and methods, and the interviews will be one means by which I can widen that focus.
Today's interview subject is Kyle Schillinger, who works as a cutter/draper at the Clarence Brown Theatre, a LORT-D regional theatre in residence on the campus of the University of Tennessee at Knoxville. In addition to his work as a production staff member at the CBT, Kyle is also an accomplished freelance costume designer. Kyle and I first met one summer several years ago when we were both hired as crafts artisans at the Utah Shakespearean Festival. We've stayed in touch, and Kyle has even done some overhire work for PlayMakers shows (such as the two pairs of houndstooth trousers for the Duke in Big River. and when I decided to pursue this interview series, he immediately came to mind as a possible participant.
Q. For a bit of background, would you describe the shop at Clarence Brown Theatre--how many employees, what different positions there entail, etc?
A. The Clarence Brown Theatre’s Costume Shop is staffed with a Shop Supervisor, a full time Cutter/Draper (me), and two full time staff Stitchers – one of which doubles as the Wardrobe Supervisor. We don’t have a First Hand, but one of my Stitchers is a great cutter and helps out a lot on large shows that have a good lead-time. Melissa Caldwell-Weddig, our shop manager, spends much of the day in meetings and communicating with us and the rest of the CBT organization – she also helps me by ordering supplies that I request, coordinating fittings and making sure that our facilities and equipment are in proper condition. Together, she and I are responsible for shop workflow and making sure that each show successfully fulfills the design within the budget and timeframe.
Q. What are your responsibilities as lead draper?
A. Much of my day is spent in pattern drafting/draping, cutting, and fittings. I also spend a good deal of time talking with the designer to get into their head – I try to ask the minimum of questions during our first meeting so I don’t overload myself or limit myself with information – I ask more questions as I’m draping and during fittings. I have shifted into doing more flat drafting than draping on a form – for some reason we’ve been doing much more tailoring at the CBT lately. Then I’m in charge of cutting mock-ups, or talking my Stitcher/First Hand Amber through how I want them cut – she does quite a bit of mock-up cutting so I can keep patterning – it really helps.
Communicating with my Stitchers is a huge part of my job. If you are unable to express to others how to put a garment together than you’ll have a very hard time as a draper. I try to plan a construction method as I pattern and notch things to help me remember. Often, my Stitchers will help me figure out the method or come up with a far better way of doing something. Remember, listening is part of communicating!
Fittings are one of the most enjoyable parts of my job. I love working with the actors and designers to really achieve the costume.
We’ve started something new this year to help us all communicate more effectively in the CBT Costume Shop. On Monday mornings at 9:30 we’ve started to hold a shop meeting – Melissa lets us know what’s going on on her end, I talk through the work of the week and then we open the floor to questions. It has helped us all really think through the week and set goals.
( Read more... )
labricoleuse to include other perspectives--this blog serves as a fairly comprehensive document of my own opinions and methods, and the interviews will be one means by which I can widen that focus. Today's interview subject is Kyle Schillinger, who works as a cutter/draper at the Clarence Brown Theatre, a LORT-D regional theatre in residence on the campus of the University of Tennessee at Knoxville. In addition to his work as a production staff member at the CBT, Kyle is also an accomplished freelance costume designer. Kyle and I first met one summer several years ago when we were both hired as crafts artisans at the Utah Shakespearean Festival. We've stayed in touch, and Kyle has even done some overhire work for PlayMakers shows (such as the two pairs of houndstooth trousers for the Duke in Big River. and when I decided to pursue this interview series, he immediately came to mind as a possible participant.
Q. For a bit of background, would you describe the shop at Clarence Brown Theatre--how many employees, what different positions there entail, etc?
A. The Clarence Brown Theatre’s Costume Shop is staffed with a Shop Supervisor, a full time Cutter/Draper (me), and two full time staff Stitchers – one of which doubles as the Wardrobe Supervisor. We don’t have a First Hand, but one of my Stitchers is a great cutter and helps out a lot on large shows that have a good lead-time. Melissa Caldwell-Weddig, our shop manager, spends much of the day in meetings and communicating with us and the rest of the CBT organization – she also helps me by ordering supplies that I request, coordinating fittings and making sure that our facilities and equipment are in proper condition. Together, she and I are responsible for shop workflow and making sure that each show successfully fulfills the design within the budget and timeframe.
Q. What are your responsibilities as lead draper?
A. Much of my day is spent in pattern drafting/draping, cutting, and fittings. I also spend a good deal of time talking with the designer to get into their head – I try to ask the minimum of questions during our first meeting so I don’t overload myself or limit myself with information – I ask more questions as I’m draping and during fittings. I have shifted into doing more flat drafting than draping on a form – for some reason we’ve been doing much more tailoring at the CBT lately. Then I’m in charge of cutting mock-ups, or talking my Stitcher/First Hand Amber through how I want them cut – she does quite a bit of mock-up cutting so I can keep patterning – it really helps.
Communicating with my Stitchers is a huge part of my job. If you are unable to express to others how to put a garment together than you’ll have a very hard time as a draper. I try to plan a construction method as I pattern and notch things to help me remember. Often, my Stitchers will help me figure out the method or come up with a far better way of doing something. Remember, listening is part of communicating!
Fittings are one of the most enjoyable parts of my job. I love working with the actors and designers to really achieve the costume.
We’ve started something new this year to help us all communicate more effectively in the CBT Costume Shop. On Monday mornings at 9:30 we’ve started to hold a shop meeting – Melissa lets us know what’s going on on her end, I talk through the work of the week and then we open the floor to questions. It has helped us all really think through the week and set goals.
( Read more... )
