Jan. 4th, 2008

labricoleuse: (paraplooey)
I've had a couple queries about the nature of my parasol book, which i figured i'd answer here.

Q. What kinds of projects are in the book?

A. There aren't specific projects, per se. The book was developed as a textbook for a graduate level production course that i teach, and contains information on custom patterning techniques that you utilize and adapt according to the type of parasol you desire. It's intended to be a reference manual for artisans who may be given a research image or costume design rendering that they will then have to realize. It's a guide for making your own patterns, not a step-by-step book with specific projects included. If that is what you are looking for, the book Victorian Parasols by Millicent Rene contains several pre-drafted patterns for specific parasols. (Of course, to use them you need to make sure that you have a parasol frame with the right number of panels in the canopy. Six and eight panel frames are the most common so you shouldn't have trouble locating the right type.) For non-industry costumers, it will be helpful in situations like, "I saw this amazing parasol on eBay but it went for way more than i could afford...wonder if i could make one just like it?"

Q. What sort of photos are included?

A. Most of the practical illustrations are diagrams, hand-drawn illustrations, and period references. Some of the photos illustrate the text, and there is a short section at the end of photographs of various kinds of parasols in my own collection and the collection at my workplace, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Most of the book is information-based, not research image based. For research images (19th century mostly), try either the Rene book mentioned above or Ladies' Vintage Accessories by LaRee Bruton.

Q. Do i need to be an advanced costumer to use the information in the book?

A. That's a tough one. As i said, i wrote it for graduate level students in our Costume Production MFA program, who are by and large quite advanced in their skill level. However, I do describe three different canopy patterning methods--drafting with geometry principles, draping, and generating a "sloper" from an existing cover. I think if you are a good seamstress and can do pattern adjustments like moving a dart or changing a sleeve shape, you will find one of the methods that will work for you. It depends on how your brain works! Parasols look simple, but can be deceptively difficult to work with. I would say, this is not a book for a beginner, but should be useful for intermediate stitchers with an interest in parasol making.

Q. How much history is included?

A. There is a short section on history in the introduction, which touches on the development of the sunshade in various cultures as well as etiquette and innovations in frame design. There are already a few very good resources out there with more comprehensive, in-depth historical information; this book is more like the equivalent of a tailoring method book. For a good chunky history book, try A History of the Umbrella by TS Crawford. I will say that one thing i'm quite proud of is the extensive glossary at the end of parasol terminology. It sure beats talking about them in terms like "the hingey part rubbed a hole in the fabricky part where the spiny part attaches, and there's a broken spokey thing at the top near the whatsit." I'm a big vocabulary nerd.

Oh, and shipping through Lulu can be strange--sometimes it's really expensive for a single book, but way cheaper if you meet a minimum. It may be beneficial to pair up with friends and order multiple copies, or surf the site for other books of interest. There are a lot of cool costume-related small-audience texts on there on subjects like costume armor, historical needlework, vintage knitting patterns, etc.!


And now, some links:

This thread on the Fedora Lounge board has a wonderful series of photographs of a hatter making a custom fedora.

ThreadBanger is an online "television show" site with tons of DIY clothing alteration videos as well as a recent piece on the costumes of Sweeney Todd.

Research paper writers, you need to know about BibMe.com, which will automatically generate a bibliography for you in a given style of your choice. And it's FREE.

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