labricoleuse: (mee)
[personal profile] labricoleuse
In Bill Brewer's designs for Mrs. Lovett in Sweeney Todd, her second look has a very specific stripe to it. He'd found a swatch of fabric at a New York vendor which he loved, but there were two problems: the vendor sold out of the fabric before the swatches were approved, and in order to match the fabric up the center front in this inverse chevron, one half of the skirt would have had to be cut inverted, which creates a visual anomaly in textiles with satin weaves.


Concept slide and design rendering by Bill Brewer


Image of silk yardage - the fabric we couldn't buy

In order to achieve this look, my assistant and first-year grad student Erin Torkelson took the above research image of the fabric Bill liked, rendered the stripe as a TIFF, and uploaded it to Spoonflower. We ordered sample swatches of it in a couple different substrate fabrics and Bill chose the fabric he liked best (the poly satin). He also elected to change the stripe to feature more whitespace. Then, because the stripe design is not a balanced mirror of itself, we had two versions of the stripe printed so that the skirt could be cut with that matching chevron up the front with the directional nap accommodated for.

Lovett Stripe
Lovett Stripe Reversed

Pretty cool, eh?

Date: 2016-04-01 08:45 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladycelia.livejournal.com
I always enjoy your process posts.

Date: 2016-04-03 02:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mschaos.livejournal.com
that is so cool! I love the future

Date: 2016-04-05 01:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] labricoleuse.livejournal.com
Notice to 3rd commenter, Jan in the UK: I sent you a private email and screened your comment because i thought it might be a conversation better conducted outside of a public forum, and didn't want your personal email's link harvested by spammers and such. Thank you for contacting me and look for my email!

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